Inspired Electronics

The Inspired Electronics blog has moved!

2010-12-31T13:13:00.003-06:00

Please visit us on our website, where we regularly post new content. You can join us at http://blog.inspired-electronics.com.

Thanks, and see you there!
Rob and Keith

How to buy a TV

2009-10-27T09:00:00.000-05:00

Think back to the last time you bought a TV. How did you research and decide on what to buy?

If you went into a big box retail store, I'll bet you went to the "wall of TVs" where you were able to look at dozens or hundreds of different TVs side-by-side. You probably looked for the screen that looked the brightest or most colorful.

Or, you looked at the specs (especially if you bought the TV online), and chose based on what looked like they had the best numbers.

Or, you may have asked the sales associate for help.

All of these are good starting places, but they also all have some pitfalls that you need to be aware of so that you can make the best decision for your specific needs.

Narrowing the choices

Given so many choices in TVs these days, you really need to weed out the obvious non-starters. The first thing most people do is to settle on the size. I talked about screen size in my last blog entry. Once you've done that, you still have a formidable array of choices. So the next logical step is to decide on your budget. Now you probably have a dozen or two screens to choose from.

The next step most people want to take is to decide between plasma and LCD. That's a pretty good decision point, provided you choose for the right reasons. Look back at my blog on Plasma vs. LCD to get some tips on that.

So now you've cut out about half of the remaining choices, and you're ready to get down to business.

Big Box Stores - the Wall of TVs

First, let's talk about the "Wall of TVs". Every big-box store that sells TVs has one of these. Acres of video displays all trying to catch your eye and get you to take them home. But how do you decide which one is right for you?

At this point, most people compare the screens side by side (or as close as they can, given the layout of the store). They look for brightness, color saturation, black levels, and motion blur effects. Sometimes they'll consider how the TV sounds, if they're not going to hook it up to a sound system.

But remember, this is a big-box retailer we're talking about. These guys are masters at showing off the most profitable TVs, while leaving the less profitable ones hanging in the wings.

So the first thing you need to know is that these TVs all have the brightness and color saturation cranked up to the maximum. Just like a shiny car or piece of candy, the brighter and more colorful an object, the more it will catch your eye. (Some manufacturers even go so far as to engineer the TVs for maximum brightness and color saturation, just for this reason.) Also, remember that you're viewing these TVs under the store lights. Generally, they're metal halide lights, which are very different than your lights at home, causing the picture to look different.

Black levels are harder to disguise, but remember that when the brightness is cranked up, the blacks will naturally wash out a little bit.

And then there's motion blur and smoothness of the picture. Remember that these stores connect all of the TVs to a single source device. This means the signal is split and split again many times, and that process can degrade the picture quality. So the TVs that look better may very well have fewer splits, resulting in a better picture through no fault of the TV. Of course, some stores will go so far as to have completely different source material designed to make a TV look its best for the TVs they want to push.

Online comparisons - overwhelmed by numbers

If you're shopping or comparing on the Internet, you obviously can't look at the choices directly. So you compare based on specs, right? Of course, whenever I look at specs for TVs, I see as many as 50-75 different specs listed. And not every TV lists the same specs. And many of the specs mean something different between different TVs. Other specs make you think that more (or less) is better, but that's not necessarily true.

For example, you may look at the refresh rate for an LCD TV, listed at 60 Hz, 120 Hz, or 240 Hz, or even 480 Hz. I was comparing specs for a client the other day, and had to really dig to find the refresh rate for one of the TVs she was interested in. But is the higher number really better? There's too much information on this topic to go over in detail here, so I'll do a blog in the future about this whole refresh rate subject. So let me just say that once you get to 120 Hz, there's really no need to go any higher, because the TV can accurately display all source material correctly.

Oh, and Plasma manufacturers don't want to be left out of the Hz game, so they have their own spec for that, called "subfield drive" usually quoted as 600 Hz. but this has nothing to do with refresh rate, and really isn't useful in comparisons.

Contrast ratio is another comparison factor that has very little basis in reality. Every manufacturer measures it differently, and there's no way to compare them.

There are literally dozens of specs that can really overwhelm you when comparing TVs online.

Sales Associates - how do they know?

So let's say you've decided to ask the nearest sales associate for some help in comparing. One of the things I've noticed in a big-box store is that most of the time when I ask for help, they simply go to the display and look up the specs, which you probably did already.

Another thing I've noticed is that sometimes the associate is knowledgable, but sometimes they come from the household appliance department. Or they're really new.

Most big-box stores have programs to train the associates in the products they're selling. Usually, it's manufacturer-driven training. Some brands are more agressive than others, and will fill the trainees' heads with lots of (dubiously useful) information - I know, I've sat through a lot of these classes.

Finally, remember that the sales associate may be on a "spif" program. This means if he/she can get credit for selling a certain brand or model, they get a cash bonus, often from the manufacturer. So they're incentivized to recommend the models that give them the best spifs.

Is there any good news?

Wow, that's a lot of doom and gloom! I'm not usually a negative kind of person, but I see so many friends and clients getting bad advice on what to buy that I really want to make sure they understand how the information they're getting can be tainted.

So how do you cut through this morass? I won't pretend there's a perfect alternative.

I will say, though, that when I do find a truly knowledgable person in any field, I tend to hit them up again and again for advice on what to do.

Like most custom installers, we spend a lot of time not just comparing specs, but looking at different TVs in real-life situations. We also spend a lot of time in training such as ISF (Imaging Science Foundation) classes to understand exactly how video and film pictures are created and distributed, and how that impacts picture quality. And of course, we try to understand what things most people will actually notice on their TVs. After all, a spec is completely irrelevant if you can't see a difference on the screen!

So my advice is to find a custom installer that you can trust, and work with him or her to figure out what's best for you. Of course, we'd love to be that advisor, so call us at 847.471.4420 or visit our web page. But even if we're not, we know that most of the people in this industry are very knowledgable.

Thanks -

Rob

2009-10-17T16:55:00.002-05:00

Technology keeps changing, so I need to keep revisiting old questions! The last time I addressed screen size recommendations was in 2007. Do you think the answer has changed?

Well, actually, I think the basic sizing recommendations still hold. But there are a few things that have changed, given the changes in technology and the way people use their TVs these days.
Before we get to the specific recommendations, there are some things we try to take into consideration when consulting with our clients.

The first thing to consider is your budget. Larger screens cost more, which seems only normal. But of course, larger screens are much less expensive today than a couple of years ago. For example, in 2006 a 58” 720p plasma display ran about $4,800. Today, you can get a top-of-the-line 65” 1080p plasma from Panasonic for about the same price. Or, you could get an ultra-slim 55” LCD Samsung display, again at 1080p, with a 240 Hz refresh rate, Internet connectivity, LED backlighting, and a host of other features for even a bit less. Smaller screens have come down even more.

So if your budget allows for the larger screen, you may want to opt for that. But you may also decide that some of the other features are more important, and you can live with a slightly smaller screen.

You also need to balance the screen with the rest of the furnishings, and it needs to physically fit in the space - if you're mounting a flat-panel over the fireplace, you may have limitations because of the ceiling, mantle, fireplace opening, and other built-in elements of the room.
On the other hand, you may want to be totally immersed in the video. In that case, a larger screen size will fill in your peripheral vision with more movie, sports, or video game action, making you part of the action. Of course, if you feel overwhelmed by watching larger-than-life TV, a smaller screen will let you feel "outside looking in."

A couple of years ago, I would have recommended a rear-projection TV if you want a big screen on a limited budget. Today, the prices of flat panels, the limitations of rear-projection TVs, combined with their very limited availability make those units a much poorer choice.

Then there are the many budget-minded flat panel TVs that cost less money than the name brands. I'd caution, though, against getting caught up in the "cheap panel TV" sales hype that you'll see this holiday season. You really do get what you pay for, and you don't want to be stuck with a picture that's even worse than your old TV!

One more factor to consider is power consumption. Larger screens simply use more power, and plasmas usually consume more power than LCDs (especially those with LED backlighting). While calibration can help, you still probably want to take that into consideration.

So what are my recommendations for screen sizes? Usually you want your seating distance to be 1 ½ to 2 times the diagonal size of the screen for a front projection system, and 2 to 2 ½ times the diagonal screen size for a panel TV. Opt for a larger screen size for a more immersive experience, or a smaller screen size if you want more features at the same price point or you don’t want to be overwhelmed by the TV.

As always, if you're still confused about all of the options out there, give us a call, and we'll be glad to give you a free consultation!

Thanks -
Rob

Living Room Theater for Contractors

2009-08-19T09:30:00.000-05:00

Probably the most common instance of a home theater today is the living room or family room theater. This is most often a multi-use room which won’t always have the audio and video systems in use. The room will be used to watch TV, movies, sports, video games, and more. And often this system will be the basis of a distributed audio system to get music to the rest of the house or the backyard. So the system has to be easy to use, while at the same time providing as much flexibility as the media room.

There are many factors to consider with a living room theater, such as acoustics, ambient light, sources, audio distribution, seating, and interior design. The system has to look good both when it’s on and when it’s off!

Room acoustics
Living rooms are rarely enclosed regular spaces. Hallways, dining rooms, kitchens, extra entertaining areas, and extra high ceilings all pose significant challenges to the acoustics of the room. And because the room is not primarily an A/V room but rather an entertaining space, the furnishings often do not lend themselves well to the really good sound absorption, reflection, and dispersion that’s necessary for the best sound. The A/V team and the interior designer need to work together to ensure that both the design goals and the A/V goals are met.

Sources and screen
As with the media room, clients will want their living room entertainment system to perform every possible function, from movies to video games. There will be more of an emphasis on TV watching than in the media room, although both types of rooms will require a good TV experience.

A living room is much more likely to employ an LCD or Plasma panel than a projector. This means the screen size will be smaller, and you’ll need to consider whether the screen needs to be camouflaged or hidden when not in use.

The equipment will need to fit aesthetically into the room. You may want to locate the equipment in a closet that can be closed off, or in furniture such as a low-boy or other cabinet. Make sure there’s adequate ventilation, though. If you completely block in the equipment, it will overheat and burn out, or worse, burn up! Remember, if this system is the foundation for distributed audio, there may be more equipment than you expect in the cabinet.

And finally, consider the placement of the screen. Many people will want the TV over the fireplace (if there is one) because it creates a single focal point for the room. Interior designers often dislike this option because it takes away from the elegance of the room. Either way, it’s best to provide several options, because the homeowner will likely change their mind later. In particular, make sure there’s power and a cable chase above the fireplace and in the most likely alternate locations. This will enable the A/V team to respond quickly and efficiently to the homeowner’s requests to move the TV, and will earn high marks for forward thinking for the builder.

Ambient Light
Most living rooms have lots of light, by design. This is a good thing when entertaining in the day, but can wreak havoc on watching TV or a ball game in the afternoon. The choice of video display is impacted by the any light in the space and relative locations of the screen and the windows. Powered curtains or shades that can be remotely controlled can be a way to automatically remove light from the room when needed.

Disguising the screen
Many homeowners and interior designers don’t want the screen to be visible when it’s not in use. There are many options for this, from picture frames that go around the TV bezel, to mirrors that disappear when the display is on, to covers that can essentially replace the screen with a work of art that slides out of the way when the display is in use.

Often, you’ll need to build an inset for the TV so that it doesn’t look unsightly from the side. Again, ventilation is important – you can’t build a frame tight to the TV, unless you also put in fans to keep the TV cool.

Seating
Theater chairs are generally banned from the living room, so plan for sofas and chairs. Remember that the room also has to act as a conversation pit, so plan furniture locations accordingly. And consider sight lines from other rooms, too. For example, the homeowner may want to see the TV from the kitchen or breakfast nook.

Other thoughts
In addition to the above considerations, note that TV mounted above a fireplace is higher than normal. In order to make sure the viewers are comfortable, you’ll need to be sure the seats are far enough away that there’s no need to crane necks to see the screen. A longer viewing distance may also necessitate a larger TV.

Tilting the TV can help a little, but the image is usually higher than most people like. The tilt actually solves the glare problem better than it solves the height issue.

The living room (or den or family room) has some special considerations compared to a media room or a cinema room. In particular, the living room has to have excellent design even when the A/V equipment is not in use. And finally, you need to allow the client to rearrange the room and to expand the system. Doing so will earn you high marks for forward thinking, while failing to do so will have clients grumbling down the line.

Where to get help
For any electronic system, it’s important to bring in a CE pro (custom electronics professional). The CE pro will be able to help design the electronics, in conjunction with the architect, builder, and interior designer, in order to deliver the perfect experience for the client. That same CE pro will be able to recommend and provide the right mix of equipment and control systems for the client, staying within the client’s budget, and finally install and calibrate the equipment to ensure the best experience possible.

If you’re looking for a CE pro that you can trust to work with you and deliver the best results for your clients, call the experts at Inspired Electronics, Inc. We specialize in residential and commercial audio, video, and control systems. Call Keith Rose at 847.471.420 or email at keith@inspired-electronics.com.

For more information about Inspired Electronics, Inc., visit our website at http://www.inspired-electronics.com/.

Game and Media Rooms for Contractors

2009-08-12T09:00:00.000-05:00

In the first article in this series, we talked about the different types of home theaters that you might be asked to put into a home. In the second, we focused on the dedicated cinema room.
This time, we’ll focus on a common basement remodeling project – the media room or game room. This room differs from the home cinema in that it’s usually part of a larger entertaining space, which may include a bar, a pool table, conversation areas, or other entertaining spaces.

The media room is often separated from the rest of the space by a half-wall or a counter where a row of stools provides additional seating. There may also be more viewing screens such as flat panel TVs around the bar or in other segments. And your client will want to do more than watch movies on the main screen. Our clients want to watch sports, TV, and even video games on the big screen. And sometimes they even want a stage for their kids to perform on.

There are differences in acoustics, sources, seating, ambient light, and video distribution among other things.

Room acoustics
The first thing we notice with media rooms is that they’re missing a wall (sometimes two!). The back wall is often a half-wall, and a side wall can be missing or partially missing. This makes the theater room part of the rest of the space, including the other occupants in the movie, sports show, or video game if they choose. It also allows sound to move between the spaces, so the movie is heard at the bar, and the pool table is heard in the theater. The base level of ambient sound (the “Noise Criteria”) can be much higher when there’s a party, which means the volume needs to be higher in order to hear the softer passages. Of course, that volume invades the rest of the space during the louder scenes. This is probably exactly what the client wants when they’re watching a baseball or football game, but may not be ideal in a movie. It also means the sound bounces around the room differently, which can impact the surround-sound imaging even when there’s nobody else sharing the space.

Sources
When a client asks for a media room, they usually are thinking the space will serve multiple purposes. They’ll want to watch movies (Blu-Ray, Internet downloads, or Video-on-demand), sports (over-the-air or cable TV), regular TV programming, home movies, and even video games (Wii, Xbox, or Playstation). You need to consider where these sources will live, and especially in the case of the Wii, how the users will interact with the screen. There has to be enough room to play the active games like Wii Sports without knocking into the screen or the seating. And finally, people standing in front of the front row are likely to interfere with the projector image unless the room is very carefully designed and configured.

Video and Audio Distribution
Since the clients want the rest of the space to interact with the theater, you many need to consider multiple screens to ensure that everyone has good sightlines. The guest sitting at the bar will want to know the score without having to walk around the corner to the theater room. And of course you’ll want to carefully plan speaker locations so that all guests can hear the game without annoying echoes or delays, and without it being too loud for conversation. Speaker types and locations are important here, as is proper amplification.

Note that the client may also want to put something different on different screens. For example, the main screen may be showing the home team football game, while the bar TV may be showing a different game. A TV in a conversation area may show a movie for the kids, while the outdoor TVs may be showing a baseball game! For each different item that’s showing, you need a source, and you need a video switcher capable of routing that many signals to that many displays. And if the displays aren’t all capable of showing the same resolution (some may be 1080p, while others are 720p), you need to be able to scale the signal appropriately. And of course you need a way to control all of this!

Ambient Light
As the space is also an entertaining space, you’ll need to make sure there is plenty of natural light in the room. This means a normal low-lumen projector, designed for use in near complete darkness, won’t be able to project an image bright enough to compensate. You’ll need a brighter projector and possibly a higher-gain screen to make up for the additional light but still provide an excellent picture. And night-time entertaining will have a different level of light than day-time entertaining, which means the projector may need multiple calibration levels.

Seating
Many times, clients will opt for sofas instead of theater chairs in a media room – they’re considered more friendly in this type of space. And tiered seating may be out of the question, although bar stools behind a counter or half-wall may give the client backup seating space. But these seats aren’t usually within the surround-sound-stage, which means the audio portion of the event may not be very good from those seats unless the speaker locations are designed correctly.

Other thoughts
In many ways, a media room is even more complex than a cinema room. While the cinema room has to do audio and video very well, the media room has to be able to switch personalities quickly and easily.

Where to get help
For any electronic system, it’s important to bring in a CE pro (custom electronics professional). The CE pro will be able to help design the electronics, in conjunction with the architect, builder, and interior designer, in order to deliver the perfect experience for the client. That same CE pro will be able to recommend and provide the right mix of equipment and control systems for the client, staying within the client’s budget, and finally install and calibrate the equipment to ensure the best experience possible.

If you’re looking for a CE pro that you can trust to work with you and deliver the best results for your clients, call the experts at Inspired Electronics, Inc. We specialize in residential and commercial audio, video, and control systems. Call Keith Rose at 847.471.420 or email at keith@inspired-electronics.com.

For more information about Inspired Electronics, Inc., visit our website at http://www.inspired-electronics.com.

Home Cinema for Contractors

2009-08-05T10:40:00.001-05:00

Your client just told you they want a home theater as part of their remodeling or building project. You think, “Cool, this is really going to make this project a great living experience for the client!”

Now you need to make sure you design and build the theater that your clients are hoping for. And you probably don’t have a degree in acoustic design. This article will give you some basic rules-of-thumb to get you going. For more detailed design help, please contact Inspired Electronics, Inc. at info@inspired-electronics.com, www.inspired-electronics.com, or 847.471.4420.

In order to be sure you create the right room, you first need to delve a little bit more into what the client really wants. Take a look at our previous article to learn about the different options, so you can narrow down what your client is really interested in.

Now, let’s assume for this article that the client really wants that holy grail of home entertainment experiences, a dedicated home cinema. Here are a few things you should consider when designing and building that room.

Room acoustics
Everyone knows that the video display is a critical part of a cinema experience. But have you ever really considered the audio? Room acoustics play a huge part in making that home cinema room sound as good as it looks, delivering a knock-your-socks-off experience.

The room should be rectangular in shape, with the screen on the short wall. And all four walls and ceiling should be there – if you have a half-wall opening onto another room, the acoustics change significantly. There needs to be a door, and windows are generally not desirable. Any sort of ell or nook will also change the acoustics.

Walls should be flat, although columns and a proscenium are fine.

In general, you want the room furnishings to absorb or disperse some of the sound energy in the room, without damping the room too much. If the room is too absorptive, it will sound “dead”, and if it’s too reflective, it will sound “bright” or “echo-y”. Curtains across or beside the screen are fine (but shouldn’t cover the speakers), and furniture will also be sound absorptive. Carpet is good for the same reason. But don’t dampen the room too much – you can always add acoustical treatments later if necessary.

Note that bass frequencies behave differently than treble frequencies. They are much harder to control after construction, so you need to take them into consideration during the design phase. You may consider using a dedicated software package to predict how the bass frequencies are going to interact with the room. In some cases, you may need to provide for a way to “trap” the bass, or plan for multiple subwoofers to even out the response.

Room isolation
Your client probably wants sound isolation from the rest of the home. This serves two purposes. First, it allows someone to watch a movie at full volume without disturbing others in the home. Second, it removes outside noise such as the HVAC, street noise, or other outside noises that interfere with low-volume listening.

In order to properly isolate a room, you need to build a “room-within-a-room”. This means double stud walls, with a sound-dampening material woven between the walls. Double drywall does little to prevent the most annoying sound frequencies from traveling to another room unless a sound-dampening barrier is also used.

The Screen and Speakers
Most clients will want the screen to be as big as possible. You need to be sure they can see the bottom of the screen from the back row. You also need to be sure there’s room for the speakers. Speakers can be hidden behind an acoustically transparent screen if needed. Your client may also want an ultra-wide screen (anamorphic widescreen). This allows the client to watch movies in the very wide 2.35:1 aspect ratio format. You will want a masking screen and an anamorphic lens at the projector for this option.

In a dedicated cinema room, the client will expect the Left/Center/Right front speakers, plus 4 or 6 surround/rear speakers, plus 2 or even 4 subwoofers. This setup has the ability to deliver the best possible sound to every seat in the room.

Other room factors
Be sure you can fit as many seats as the client wants. If there are two or more rows of seating, you’ll need to have clear sight lines from the back rows.

The projector will most likely be mounted toward the back of the room, near the ceiling. Too low, and heads will be in the way – too high, and the projector may “wash” the ceiling too much. And it needs to be centered with the projector, of course. Some projectors have vertical and horizontal shift mechanisms, but you may not want to rely on that.

The audio and video equipment (amplifiers, Blu-Ray player, control systems, etc.) all need to live somewhere. Ideally, they will be accessible from the room without taking up room space, which usually means putting a pull-out rack in a closet or cubby. Make sure there is access to the back of the rack for upgrades, repairs, or reconfigurations. And be sure there is sufficient ventilation, as amplifiers get hot, while Blu-Ray players can be sensitive to heat!

Where to get help
For any electronic system, it’s important to bring in a CE pro (custom electronics professional). The CE pro will be able to help design the electronics, in conjunction with the architect, builder, and interior designer, in order to deliver the perfect experience for the client. That same CE pro will be able to recommend and provide the right mix of equipment and control systems for the client, staying within the client’s budget, and finally install and calibrate the equipment to ensure the best experience possible.

If you’re looking for a CE pro that you can trust to work with you and deliver the best results for your clients, call the experts at Inspired Electronics, Inc. We specialize in residential and commercial audio, video, and control systems. Call Keith Rose at 847.471.420 or email at keith@inspired-electronics.com.

For more information about Inspired Electronics, Inc., visit our website at http://www.inspired-electronics.com.

Home Theater: Contractor Basics

2009-07-29T09:47:00.004-05:00

How many times have you heard a client say, “I want a home theater?” Over the last few years, this area has become common in both remodeling projects and initial home designs.

But what exactly is home theater?

Simply defined, a home theater is an audio and video system where the speakers are not part of the video display, but rather are separate components. That’s a lot of latitude, since it can encompass anything from a small TV hooked up to a stereo all the way up to a dedicated room with seating for 40 with a very large projection system, multiple surround-speakers, racks of equipment, and a large touch panel control system.

So the first thing you need to do is learn exactly what a client wants when they say “home theater." Here are a few basic categories to help get you started.

Small Bedroom or Living Room System with Stereo
The simplest home theater has a small (by today’s standards!) flat panel TV mounted either on a stand or on the wall (over a fireplace is common), connected to a small stereo receiver and a pair of wall-mounted (in-wall or on-wall) or free-standing speakers. “Small” typically means under 40” diagonal.

If your client wants this, make sure you know if the TV will be wall- or stand-mounted (provide power and a cable chase if wall-mounted), and whether the speakers will be wall-mounted or free standing (if in-wall or on-wall, you’ll need to pre-wire with good-quality in-wall speaker wire – typically 16/2).

The client will probably also need a place to put the DVD or Blu-Ray player, the cable or satellite receiver, and the stereo receiver. A properly-sized nook or an equipment stand are the best options for this.

The wiring chase to the TV location can have an HDMI cable, Component Video cables, or other video cables pulled as needed. We like 2” flexible raceways to give enough room for the cable heads to get through.

Living room surround-sound system
The next level up typically incorporates a larger video display and surround-sound instead of stereo speakers. You still have to worry about power for the TV if it’s wall-mounted and pre-wiring for five speakers plus the subwoofer.

You’ll still need a place for the equipment to reside, so make sure to ask the client whether they want a built-in nook or if they’ll be putting in some furniture. Don’t forget to account for space for a gaming system and a way to dissipate heat! You need a way to get video up to the TV, so that cable chase is still important.

A new component you need to consider is the subwoofer. Surround-sound speakers generally require a separate subwoofer to handle the low frequencies. Don’t put the subwoofer in a nook, because the enclosure will further focus and amplify the bass frequencies. If the client wants to hide the sub, there are in-wall subwoofers available. These need to be preplanned, since there are enclosures that need to be built into the wall.

Media Rooms
Media rooms are one of the most common forms of home theater that people think of when building an addition or finishing a basement.

These frequently have a partially separated room for the video display and surround-sound, which joins into another entertaining space. There are a couple of major “gotcha’s” with media rooms.

First, you’re usually missing a wall. This has a big impact on the audio design, and means the client probably can’t watch one thing in the theater part while watching or listening to something else in the main entertaining area.

Second, some clients will want projectors, while others will want a very large flat panel display. It’s important to ferret this out at the beginning, since it impacts power needs and video cabling.

Third, many clients will want multiple video screens. This may mean they need a video distribution system, additional speakers and amplification, and the ability to control it all. They may also have enough equipment at this point to warrant a dedicated space for an equipment rack. Be sure to learn whether the client likes to see the equipment, or would like it hidden.

Finally, the seating becomes very important. This level is where many clients want “seat shakers” (requires power at the seats and low voltage cabling to control the actuators) and multiple seating rows (requires careful attention to sight lines, audio placement, and tiered seating).

Dedicated Cinema Rooms
I use the term Cinema Room to differentiate a higher-end dedicated theater. Your high-end clients will probably prefer this term, since it offers a bit more prestige than the lower-end living room systems and more generic media rooms.

Cinema rooms can have from 4 to 40 or more seating locations, will likely have tiered seating, and will almost always be front-projection systems with a large screen. Multiple subwoofers are common, as are equipment racks. A standard 15-amp circuit may not provide enough power, but you still have to get everything on a single circuit if possible to prevent ground-loop issues.

You may also need to worry about sound isolation in a cinema room. First, you need to isolate any outside sounds such as HVAC, footsteps overhead, traffic outside, etc. This enables the theater to more accurately re-create very low volume sounds. Second, your client is likely to want to keep the theater sounds away from the rest of the house. They don’t want to have to turn down the volume on their favorite action movie so they don’t disturb the kids after bedtime!

Where to get help
For any electronic system, it’s important to bring in a CE pro (custom electronics professional). The CE pro will be able to help design the electronics, in conjunction with the architect, builder, and interior designer, in order to deliver the perfect experience for the client. That same CE pro will be able to recommend and provide the right mix of equipment and control systems for the client, staying within the client’s budget, and finally install and calibrate the equipment to ensure the best experience possible.

If you’re looking for a CE pro that you can trust to work with you (not against you) and deliver the best results for your clients, call the experts at Inspired Electronics, Inc. We are a local, family-run company that specializes in residential and commercial audio, video, and control systems. Call Keith Rose at 847.471.420 or email at keith@inspired-electronics.com.

For more information about Inspired Electronics, Inc., visit our website at http://www.inspired-electronics.com/.

The $25K Home Theater

2009-05-20T13:07:00.008-05:00

Over the last few posts, I've talked about what you can get in a home theater for $2,500, $5,000, and $10,000. This week, I'm going to step up a bit and talk about what you can get with a larger budget, in this case, $25,000. I realize that's a pretty big step, and there's a lot of room between $10,000 and $25,000. Just remember, we can tailor any package to your specific budget, so call us to design your perfect home theater on your perfect budget!

Think of this more as a home cinema than a home theater. Everything is upgraded. You get better video, better audio, and better control. Quality installation remains the same, but since you'll have a somewhat more complex system, installation time may rise a bit. We also assume this system is going into a dedicated cinema room or a media room where the light levels and outside sound infiltration can be controlled.

Video

The most visible part of a home cinema is, of course, the video. In this package, we use JVC’s Reference Series 3-chip projector. This option eliminates color separation and “rainbow” effects, and provides one of the best 1080p pictures available at this price point. We couple that with a Draper 106” fixed-mount screen that has a “hi-def grey” finish. The grey finish actually helps a projector deliver more accurate pictures in both lighter and darker areas of the picture. And in a room where light levels are controlled, you don’t need the higher reflectivity (or gain) of a bright white screen like you would in a room with lots of light. Just like a movie theater, the room will be dark when you’re watching a movie, both to reduce distractions and to provide better contrast in the projected picture.

And of course we included a Blu-Ray player that has interactive capabilities, Netflix streaming, and a few other bells and whistles.

Audio

In the $10,000 system we had stepped up to a more powerful receiver that could handle multi-zone and a few other things. Here, we step it up again to get even more power, and more importantly, to handle the 7.2 speaker system.

We’ve coupled that receiver with 7 satellite speakers and two subwoofers. The 7 satellites provide a more even sound field at all seating locations, and help with locating sounds that are coming from the sides and behind. The multiple subwoofers even out the bass frequencies and can help compensate for room modes (peaks and valleys in the bass range due to the way those sounds are reflected around the room).

And furthermore, we’ve chosen speakers that are THX Select certified. So you know that when the system is calibrated for your room, you will be getting the sounds that the director intended. After all, sound is at least 50% of a movie!

Control

Controlling all of this equipment is one of the most interesting parts of putting together a home cinema system. You want a single control device that anyone can pick up and use, and that provides a level of “wow factor” that will have your guests talking about your system. We chose a Universal Remote Control MX6000 touchscreen tablet for this level. This remote is a tablet-style remote with a color touchscreen interface that we can tailor just for you. We can even put on a sports theme or movie theme for you!

And the remote has 2-way capability with Internet connectivity, so you can get real-time sports scores, news, weather, and stocks, and you can see album cover art, artist lists, or song lists right on the remote.

Of course, we’ll program it to turn your system on with a single button that’s labeled according to what you want to do. For example, the buttons might be, “Watch Blu-Ray”, “Watch TV”, “Play Video Game”, “Listen to CD”, etc. And we’ll even program the remote to turn the lights up or down according to what you’re doing. Just imagine pressing “Play” and having the lights slowly dim to off or almost off. Then pressing “Pause” and having the lights come up part way so you can find your way to the fridge or bathroom!

Accessories

Naturally, there are a lot of other things you need to make your home cinema system work – cables, mounting brackets, a rack to hold the equipment, wall plates to connect the speakers to, equipment to provide clean power, and much more. All of this is included at the $25K price point.

Labor

Since we offer both equipment sales and installation services, you know that you not only get the best equipment for your budget, but that it’s also properly installed, configured, and calibrated for your room so you get the most out of your investment. After all, why spend $25,000 on anything, just to get only some of the performance that it’s capable of? Our professional installation services are included in this and every package. We will install the system quickly and cleanly, and will make sure everything is working for you. And with our 90-day labor warranty, you can be confident the system will work perfectly for you!

Above $25K

For someone with a larger budget, the equipment listed here could easily be considered “mid-range”. Of course, if your budget is well below $25,000, this is considered “high-end”. We cater to all ends of the market, so we have plenty of options at all price points.
For example, we could step up to better speakers. The THX Select Certified speakers listed here aren’t THX Ultra certified. And while they’re from an excellent brand (Atlantic Technologies), they’re not Martin Logan’s or another very high-end brand.

And the projector is still “only” 1080p – we could step up to a 4K projector, go to a brighter projector, at a motorized drop-down screen, incorporate a better Blu-Ray player, add an anamorphic lens, and make many other changes to fit your lifestyle and desires in your perfect home cinema.

Another item to consider is that this doesn’t include any construction costs, seating, sound isolation, decorative items, etc.

Remember, there are more choices in electronics than you can imagine. Each choice opens up a range of options in other areas - if you spend more on the projector, you may be more limited in your seating choices. Your budget and what's most important to you are the main determining factors of what makes your perfect home cinema!

At Inspired Electronics, Inc., we can help you cut through all of the options to figure out how to maximize your home theater experience within your budget and constraints. Call us today to get started on your project!

For more information on how Inspired Electronics, Inc. can put in your dream home theater, visit our web site at http://www.inspired-electronics.com/ or call us at 847.471.4420 for a consultation or an appointment to meet us at our showroom!

Thanks -
Rob

A $10K Home Theater

2009-05-13T09:26:00.005-05:00

In the last few weeks, I've covered $2500 and $5000 home theaters. But what if you have a bit more of a budget? Perhaps you’ve received a big tax refund, or have been saving for this.

Well, I have to say, $10,000 opens up a whole world of possibilities in home theater. You now have options for a good projector or a large panel display, some really good sound (speakers, receivers), a better control option, and a few other surprises thrown in – keep reading to find out what they are!

I'll talk about two possibilities here: The large panel and the projector. First, we'll talk about everything except the display, and then talk about display choices last.

Audio Gear
At this level, we'll move up to a more powerful A/V receiver, and upgrade the speakers from a package to a matched set. We'll stick with on-wall speakers at this price point. Although we could easily put in-wall or in-ceiling speakers in to get the equipment out of the room, we might have to make compromises in other parts of the system to get the same audio quality.

In addition to more power, the receiver also gains some interesting features at this point. In particular, we add video scaling using a Faroudja processor. This processor can take your standard-definition sources like a VCR, standard DVD, video camera, or other older sources and scale them up to take advantage of the increased screen resolution. While it won’t match true 1080p source material, a reasonably good scaler will definitely improve the watchability of your existing material.

Control
For the control system, we move up to a sleeker color-screen remote that can handle more complex controls. For example, you can now have the remote remember if your DVD is on or off, and send commands only if they are needed. In our $5,000 system, the remote had to use "brute-force" control methods - force the receiver to always turn on, for example. This "smart-force" approach will reduce the time required to turn on the system, and especially reduce the time required to switch from one mode to another.

We also add in an RF control module so that you don’t have to point the remote at the equipment to control it. This allows more freedom to place your equipment in a cabinet or closet, or at the back of the room, giving a cleaner look and helping to ensure that the equipment doesn’t distract from your viewing experience.

Sources
In the $5,000 home theater system, we had introduced a Blu-Ray player. This player is a fantastic entry-level player, but we wanted to add more in the $10,000 package. By stepping up to the next model, you now can get native Profile 2.0 support for interactive content over the Internet (you no longer need to add a memory card to get this functionality).

You also now get online movie streaming through Netflix. This means you can browse the Netflix selection of movies, select what you want to watch, and start watching immediately. This is very much like the on-demand feature that most cable companies offer, but with a wider selection of movies. And it’s already included in your Netflix subscription. The player also includes a streaming music feature, using Pandora’s personalized music stations. So you can select whatever type of music you’re in the mood for. And you never have to put up with songs you don’t like!

Finally, in this package I've included a fantastic iPod dock from DLO. We've put this dock in a number of installations, and our clients rave about it, especially for systems with a second zone of audio.

Other items of interest
At this level, some people choose to stick with a smaller screen and entry-level sound in order to add home theater seating. Depending on the trade-offs you're willing to make (leather vs. vinyl, size of TV, etc.), you could get 4, 6, or even 8-person seating at this price point.

You may also choose to integrate some lighting control. If you do, you'll be able to really "wow!" your guests by automatically dimming lights when you start a movie, or brightening the room when you pause or stop!

Display
Now we come to the most visible feature of your home theater - the display.

At this price point, you will probably be going for BIG! I chose a 55” LCD for this package, simply because I prefer LCD to Plasma right now. But you could choose a 58” or even a 63” Plasma at the same price point. The LCD I chose also incorporates Internet connectivity, so that you can get news, weather, sports, YouTube, and many other web sites right on your TV. Imagine not having to go to your computer for many of the web-based tasks that you do today – and imagine doing it on a very large, very hi-resolution screen!

Or, for an even bigger size picture, consider a projector and screen. Depending on the room size, you are probably looking at an 84-106" fixed-mount or manual pull-down screen with a 1080p projector or a step-up 720p projector.

The 1080p projector would be entry-level (single chip, not as bright, less video processing capability). The 720p projector, on the other hand, would have lower resolution (but still hi-def), but would be brighter, and would have better video processing capabilities. The 720p may also have three separate display chips, which will result in better colors and contrast.

If you opt for the panel display (LCD or Plasma), this option includes a wall-mount with a tilt option (to reduce glare and neck strain). And the projector option includes a ceiling mount, as well.

Remember, we specialize in both equipment and in installation, so all of these packages include professional installation, programming, and calibration. Plus, this includes all required cabling, mounting, power protection (yes, it’s VERY important!) and instructions on how to use the system (not that you'll need much, given the simplicity of the remotes!).

There are a lot of choices in home theater. This is by no means the only option in this price range - the right home theater for you is really dependent on your tastes, your budget, and your room. Our goal is to work with you to uncover what's most important, so that we can put in a system that is perfect for your room, your tastes, and your budget!

For more information on how Inspired Electronics, Inc. can put in your dream home theater, visit our web site at http://www.inspired-electronics.com/ or call us at 847.471.4420 for a consultation!

Thanks -
Rob

The $5000 Home Theater

2009-05-06T08:00:00.000-05:00

Continuing my series on what kind of home theater you can get at various budget levels, here's an option for a $5,000 home theater system.

When I discussed a $5000 home theater last year, I had proposed a step up from a 50” DLP to a 46” LCD. Today, a similar (actually better) 46” LCD is part of the $2500 package! So I’ve stepped up the TV in this package to a 52” LCD, with very similar specs to the $2500 system. I also moved from an HTIB all-in-one system to a component-based system. So you get a separate receiver, Blu-Ray player, and speaker package in this system. And as I did last year, I added in a one-touch remote control and a wall-mount option, as well as high-quality power surge protection for both the TV and the other components.

The Television

I’ve increased the size of the television from 46” to 52” in the $5,000 package. Unfortunately, at this price point, I couldn’t squeeze in a 120 Hz model without giving up something else significant, like the remote, the larger screen size, or the component-based audio system.

So the TV here is in the same model line as in the $2500 system, but it’s 6” larger. And it’s mounted on the wall, which really adds an elegance to the room that a table-mount simply can’t duplicate. The remaining components would be mounted in a cabinet under or near the TV.

The Receiver

With the expanded budget on this system, I decided to put in a Denon A/V receiver, plus a separate Blu-Ray player. More on the Blu-Ray in a minute.

The separate A/V receiver is a much better alternative than the HTIB because of the higher-quality amplifier and other components. Because of this, it sounds better than the HTIB, especially at high or low volume levels. Interestingly, almost any receiver can sound ok within a narrow volume band. But when you try to rock the house, many very low end amplifiers just can’t put out the volume cleanly, and you get distortion. And at low volumes, they lose way too much detail to be able to deliver the full range of tones that you expect, so you can't understand the dialogue.

The Blu-Ray Player

Pretty much everyone these days has a library of DVDs that you like to watch, or subscribes to a service like Blockbuster or Netflix. Even a regular DVD will look better on a high-def TV than on a regular TV, but if you really want to take advantage of all that video power, you need a Blu-Ray player. There’s simply no other video source that delivers the full potential of hi-def.

When I added this player in, though, I wanted to put in a little bit of a different spin. So the Blu-Ray player I selected was Samsung’s entry-level player, the BD-P1600. This player is interesting because it supports a couple of features that weren’t even available a year or two ago.

First, you get the capability to have Profile 2.0 supported (you have to add a 1 GB memory card and a network connection to do this). Profile 2.0 gives you the full capability of the Blu-Ray spec, including multiple camera views and Internet-based interactivity. So you could interact with the stars of the movie, play online games, or whatever other content the producers dream up. And you’re not limited to whatever was created at the time the disc was pressed.

Many people I talk with don’t really care about Profile 2.0, but they get very excited when I tell them about the next feature – online Netflix movie streaming. Imagine never having to wait for your movies to arrive in the mail, never having to send them back, and never worrying whether they’ll have the disc you want to watch. Simply connect to your Netflix queue, select the movie you want to watch, and press play.

Now, not all content from Netflix is available online, much less in hi-def, but the selection is large and growing. My wife and I recently caught up on older episodes of the TV show "Heroes" using the Netflix online option, and I have to say, it was very convenient. The video quality was a bit lower than ideal, due to the high bandwidth requirements, but the convenience couldn’t be beat.

The Speakers

Since we don’t have an HTIB in this package that already includes speakers, we needed to look for a speaker package that fit the overall system. We settled on a Polk Audio system that includes a center channel, left and right main speakers, and left and right surround speakers, plus a subwoofer. This is a great mid-level speaker package that balances well with the entire system.

The Remote

One of the great step-up features of this package is the addition of a one-touch universal remote control. Now, this isn’t like the universal remote that comes with many TVs, cable or satellite boxes, or other devices. We would set up this remote so that you can simply press one button, say, “Watch TV”, and the entire system is turned on and set to all of the right inputs – no remembering which input the satellite receiver is on for the TV, the receiver, etc. And more importantly, no trying to teach your babysitter or mother-in-law how to use your system!
I could (and will) spend an entire column on universal remotes, so I’ll just say this is a “must-have” part of any mid-range or better home theater system.

Power

Electronics today are sensitive pieces of computer equipment. And they are just as subject to power surges and brownouts as your desktop computer. So we always add in good-quality surge protection into any mid-range or higher package. And since we’re mounting your TV on the wall (where very few people have power outlets), we need to get power there to allow you to actually turn on the TV!

We use excellent products from Panamax, including both a very high-quality surge strip and an in-wall power extension kit that meets the electrical codes. So you’re doubly protected, and as a bonus you get that electrical outlet just where it’s needed for your TV.

Installation

We chose to do an on-wall installation at this price-point. We specified 6 hours of installation labor, which includes mounting the bracket, running the video and power cables through the wall, mounting the TV, setting up the speakers and receiver, and running the speaker wires inside the wall. Your situation may be unique, and may take more or less time, so get in touch with us for a quote.

Since we’ll use two technicians on a job like this, we’d be in and out of your home in about a half-day. That’s a lot less time than you’d spend to do it yourself, and we clean up, too! Plus, our work is guaranteed, so you know your TV and speakers won’t fall off the wall. Isn’t it worth it to spend just a little more for the peace of mind that comes with knowing your system was professionally installed?

Calibration

As before, this level only includes an audio calibration. We will set your TV to an appropriate standard setting for you, and this will offer some improvement from the factory setting. And of course, the audio calibrations are what will make your system really shine.

As with any package, you can always make trade-offs. If you want better sound, you could step up to a better receiver and speakers, while switching to a smaller TV. If you want a larger screen, you could go back to an HTIB. If you want an even better one-touch remote, you could consider table-mounting the TV. The options are endless, and the answer to the right system lies in your room, your style, and your budget.

Next time, I'll step up to the $10K level. There are a lot more options here, so stay tuned.

For more information on how Inspired Electronics, Inc. can put in your dream home theater, visit our web site at http://www.inspired-electronics.com/ or call us at 847.471.4420 for a consultation or demonstration in our showroom!

Rob

The $2500 Home Theater

2009-04-29T08:00:00.000-05:00

Last year, I did a series of blog entries on a home theater at various price points - $2500, $5000, $10,000, and $25,000. In the ever-changing world of consumer electronics, what was great last year is no longer even available. So, I thought it might be time to revisit that series.

Last year, when I talked about the $2500 theater, I had specified a 50” DLP, a stereo receiver and speakers, and a DVD player, plus installation and calibration.

This year, the DLP is pretty much not even available any more. I’ve replaced it with a solid mid-range 46” LCD panel, and I’ve replaced the stereo setup and DVD player with an all-in-one unit that we call an HTIB (Home Theater In a Box). The price includes proper installation on your existing table or TV stand, and connection of several existing components, such as a game console, cable or satellite box, and even that old VCR you keep around for the kids’ videos, subject to having the right input and output jacks available. I’ve kept calibration in the mix, but to keep the whole thing within the price point I had to limit the cal to audio-only. More on that later.

The Television

I specified a 46” Samsung LCD television for this project. It’s the latest series from Samsung, but doesn’t include all the bells and whistles. So, for example, this model is 1080p, but is not 120 Hz. And it doesn’t include some of the neat Internet-based features such as RSS feeds and LED backlighting. That said, this is a very solid workhorse TV that you will enjoy for many years. It’s perfect for a master bedroom suite or a living room, and may even be the only TV in the house for many people. After all, not everyone needs RSS feeds on the TV – many people just want to watch TV!

The Receiver

For this project, I chose a Home Theater in a Box (HTIB), which is an all-in-one system that includes the A/V receiver, DVD player, subwoofer, and 5 surround speakers. Last year, I had specified a stereo receiver and a pair of good-quality speakers. That's still an option, but given the prevalence of surround sound in movies and TV, I opted for the HTIB.

The main upgrade here is moving from stereo to 5.1 surround sound. As Keith discussed in an earlier article, surround sound adds a significant level of sound immersion when you’re watching a movie, or a sporting event or other show that’s broadcast in surround sound.

The second difference is that this system has pretty much everything you need built in already – the AM/FM tuner, amplifier, DVD and CD player, and the remote control. So you don’t have to worry about getting speakers to match the amplifier, or about adding extra cables from the DVD player to the receiver or TV. And setup is much simpler for us, too, so we’re in and out of your home that much quicker.

Of course, we consider this to be a relatively entry-level system, so there are some things missing from the package. For example, the system has a DVD player, not a Blu-Ray player, so you won’t be taking advantage of all of the resolution your TV can deliver when you play a DVD. You can still get that higher resolution when you view high-definition broadcast, cable, or satellite programming. Upgrades to Blu-Ray-based HTIB’s are available, and will generally cost $300-500 more.

There are many brands of HTIB out there, and we would choose one from Panasonic, Samsung, LG, or one of the other excellent brands that are available.

Installation

Many people feel they can install an HTIB system by themselves, especially if it’s mounted on a basic stand. And many people are right about that. But adding professional installation into the mix ensures that the connections are right, and protects you against some of the more common problems we see, such as using the wrong connections, especially with older existing equipment.

We often see people connecting high-quality DVD or Blu-Ray players using the worst possible composite video connections, which really reduces the quality of the overall system. By using the right connection, you can really maximize the performance you get from your investment.

Note that we would use your existing cables to connect your existing equipment. Adding new cables could potentially improve performance of the system, but would change the pricing a bit. We'll be sure to give you the option, though. All cables would be neatly dressed and tucked away, but not necessarily hidden in the wall. And, of course, this is a table-mount, and wall-mounting is an optional upgrade.

Installation is a very small percentage of this package, and since we need to be there anyway for the calibration, doesn't it just make sense to have the system professionally installed?

Calibration

Most of the time when people add an HTIB into their home theater, it’s for a living room, game room, or other multi-purpose room. There are major flaws in the room from an acoustical point of view, compared with a dedicated theater room. For example, modern home has a fairly open floor plan with one or even two walls missing from the room – where there could be a wall, there’s an opening to the kitchen, dining room, or foyer.

From an acoustical point of view, these types of flaws can really affect your enjoyment of the system. The bass is too boomy (or missing in some places), the dialogue is hard to understand, and the high pitches can seem too bright and overpowering.

So adding calibration will really enable you to take advantage of all of the benefits you are getting with your new home theater system. When you invest that much money, shouldn’t you get your money’s worth?

I’ve dropped video calibration from the mix this time, though. Not that it’s unimportant, and we always encourage it as an add-on, but with a budget that’s severely limited like this, we believe that simply choosing the right mode setting will give you 50-60% of the benefit of a video calibration. This isn’t true of audio calibration, so we chose to focus on where you get the most value.

A Final Word

Of course, $2500 is both a lot of money and not much at the same time. The system described here is really a pretty basic home theater, without a lot of frills.

You can make many trade-offs in quality and performance to hit this price point, and still come up with a pretty good system. We can also create a less expensive or more expensive system depending on your specific needs. Generally, we’ll have to trade off screen size and resolution, calibration and installation, and even the HTIB quality to get to a lower price point. And if a larger screen, better motion handling, or better sound quality is important to you, your alternatives will be priced accordingly.

We believe that your home theater should be a reflection of your style, your needs, and your budget. For an in-person consultation on what would work well in your situation, call us to schedule an appointment either in your home or in our showroom. Keith can be reached at keith@inspired-electronics.com or at 847.471.4420.

For more information about Inspired Electronics, Inc., visit us on the web at http://www.inspired-electronics.com/. We look forward to installing your home theater!

Rob

Give Nature a Soundtrack with Outdoor Audio

2009-04-22T08:00:00.002-05:00

We install plenty of home entertainment systems, most of which are for living rooms, basements, or bedrooms. But as much as I’m a big fan of sitting down indoors on a comfy couch to watch a movie, I do enjoy the outdoors just as much.

My mother hardly ever let us stay inside on a nice day. I grew up camping, playing roller hockey, and shooting baskets in the driveway with my friends… and most of the time, we brought our music along with us. I can even remember being hired to paint my neighbor’s fence one summer, and I couldn’t have done it without my walkman.

Music makes the outdoors more enjoyable. It’s not TV, where you have to direct your attention to it. Just like indoors, music can help set a mood for whatever you’re doing outdoors, either as background music, or cranking your favorite song during a summer barbeque.

And the best part about outdoor audio is that it has gotten so much better than the boom boxes we’ve all used before. And don’t even get me started on opening your windows and just pointing your house speakers towards the back yard… that never worked that well did it?

Today, outdoor audio can be installed just like it can be in your home… permanently. No more finding an outlet, no more rushing to bring in the radio when it rains, no more underpowered speakers that you can’t hear over the usual outdoor ambient noise.

Outdoor audio, installed properly, is always there, always ready, and doesn’t require moving equipment or remembering where you put your extension cord.

We install weatherproof speakers and volume controls that fit into your outdoor design or landscaping. We can hide equipment inside, where it won’t get damaged or stolen. We can install a standalone outdoor audio system, or in some cases, we may be able to run it off of your existing equipment.

Just like in your home entertainment system, you’ll be able to listen to satellite radio, CDs, iPods, whatever. We can even program a universal remote control that is completely waterproof, and floats in case you drop it in the pool!

Whether you’re sunbathing, doing yard work, shooting hoops, cooking on the grill, swimming, working on the car or just enjoying the sunset at the end of the day… let us help you add a soundtrack to the outdoors.

Oh, and if you enjoy TV, and the outdoors, we’ve got weatherproof TVs as well!

Give me a call at (847) 471-4420 if you’d like to set up an in-home (or in-yard!) consultation to see what would work best for you. Or drop me an email at keith@inspired-electronics.com. Or even visit our website at http://www.inspired-electronics.com/!

Our slogan “Your room is our inspiration” works just as well in the backyard “room”!

Thanks –
Keith

Things to Try On Your TV at Home

2009-04-15T08:00:00.000-05:00

I’m going to list a few things here, things I’d like you to try for yourself at home if you can. Some of these things are watching specific parts in a movie; some are listening for particular sounds in movies or music.

Play along, let’s see if you hear what I hear, let’s see if you see what I see. If you do, great! If you don’t, let’s find out how we can get you there.

1) Put in the “Lord of The Rings: Fellowship of The Ring”. It’s the first of the trilogy, and one of my favorite movies. Don't like Lord of the Rings? Call me, and we'll find one of your favorite movies to try this with.

In the first couple of minutes there is an epic battle between the races of middle earth. And not to spoil the movie or anything, but Sauron, the main “bad guy” is killed in the first couple of minutes.

When he is struck down, a shockwave radiates across the battlefield, and a devilish sound permeates the viewer. I can’t explain this sound, it’s akin to a low-flying plane, or an oncoming freight train.

This low pitched sound wave should evoke an emotion in you, it should be powerful and have a definitive and profound effect signalling the falling of a terrifying foe.

If you’re not floored by this sound effect, you’re not experiencing the movie as it was meant… and we should talk.

2) Watch any NFL football game. In every game, the camera will at some point fall on the coach, who, without fail, will be holding a piece of paper in front of his mouth as he instructs the quarterback via radio on what play to run.

Look at that piece of paper… can you see words? Can you READ them?

If you’re saying to yourself, “words? I thought that was just a piece of white cardboard.” You’re not watching in high definition… and we should talk.

3) Look at the back of your DVD player and your cable or satellite receiver and tell me what you see.

If you see an HDMI cable, good for you... HDMI is a great video cable; however it sometimes doesn’t transmit the best audio. If you want to know if it can get any better, give me a call.

If you see (3) cables and they are red, green and blue… great! That is also a good video cable, although in some ways it’s not quite as good as HDMI. They don’t transmit sound at all, so we would still want to make sure you’re getting the most out of your audio. If you are curious to see how it can be made better, give me a call.

If you see a strange plug, which almost looks like the plug on the end of an older computer keyboard or mouse; that is what we call an S-video cable. It is not high definition, and it can be so much better, let’s talk.

If you see a little yellow cable (usually accompanied by a white and a red one for sound… this is one of the most basic and barebones A/V connections there is. It’s not your fault, don’t worry… even Blu-ray players which produce beautiful 1080p images come with these cables INCLUDED IN THE BOX! This astounds me to no end. That cable can’t even carry the high definition signal which Blu-rays are intended for.

If you don’t even know what any of these cables are, that’s okay. Again, you can give us a call, and we’ll be happy to take a look.

In the world of video cables, it gets better, so much better than composite or S-video… let us show you.

4) Turn everything in your A/V system off. Now, pick something to do, watch TV, watch a movie, listen to the radio, or whatever else you like to do.

Count how many remotes you use, and count how many buttons you have to push to make it all happen.

If it’s more than one remote, and more than one button… that’s too much, at least in my eyes. After all, how do you ever explain to a houseguest, or the babysitter, or your in-laws, how to use your system? Entertainment systems should entertain, not befuddle. Let us show you how we can make things easier.

5) Turn on your TV, and use it to check your e-mail, watch YouTube, or visit a website.

If you can't do that, or didn’t even know it was possible, we can show you how!

Well that’s all for now, folks. If you would like to know more about anything I’ve brought up in this article, please feel free to give me a call at 847.471.4420, or email me at keith@inspired-electronics.com. It is a sincere offer, and something we take pride in.

Oh, and please visit our website at http://www.inspired-electronics.com/. You can find out more about what we do, sign up for our newsletter, and more.

We’re here to help, to teach, and to make home entertainment, well, entertaining!

Take care everyone!

-Keith

5.1 Reasons Why Sound Matters

2009-04-08T21:30:00.002-05:00

I get asked frequently if it is really worth it to invest in a surround sound system in addition to that nice new HD TV.

Short answer… Yes, yes it is, and here are 5.1 reasons why.

Reason 1: Dimensions

Let’s compare sound to sight for a moment. You have two eyes, and those two eyes allow you to see a three dimensional world. The same can be said for sound. Stereo, (two speakers) allows you to listen to three dimensional audio.

Think back to a concert you’ve been to, if you were lucky enough to sit front row center, you could close your eyes and point out where each instrument or voice was coming from. It is stereo which makes this possible.

While most all TVs out there come with stereo speakers built right in, I could argue that (aside from being underpowered, which I will get to later) they are often too close together to duplicate proper stereo… and since this is pretty much the limitation of the screen size, there isn’t a whole lot a TV manufacturer can do about that.

This is where separate speakers can really bring out the dimensions in your listening. Giving each ear something to hear, and providing a differentiation between left and right will improve most any TV, movie, or music experience.

Reason 2: Power

Take a look at your TV, can you see the speakers? My guess is that some of you out there can’t. That’s no surprise, most TV manufacturers go out of their way to hide a TVs speakers; this is especially true of most new HD flat screens.

Not only are they small and hidden, or sometimes on the bottom or even back of the TV for that matter -they’re quite underpowered compared to even a modest standalone speaker powered by an equally underpowered receiver.

TV speakers tend to be around 5-20 watts. If you’re looking to rock the house… this just isn’t going to cut it.

Try this too, find a music channel, or something else you’d like to listen to, and turn your TV up. No, I mean really turn it up! How does it sound as you get a bit higher in volume? A little distorted? Not as clear? Like it’s trying to make you happy, but can’t quite muster the strength?
And just to prove I’m not some rock music blaring metal-head, now turn on a sitcom, and turn the volume down low - low like you’re in bed and your spouse has already fallen asleep, but you still want to catch the rest of the show.

Can you hear all the voices clearly? Do you need closed captioning?

This is where adding speakers to your system, with adequate power of course, can really improve your listening experience. Not only will you be able to rock the house when you wish, but a properly powered speaker will also sound better at lower volumes too.

Reason 3: Dialogue

Those first two reasons primarily dealt with stereo setups, but now we get to the really fun stuff. Surround sound!

Let’s take 5.1 surround sound for instance. One of those 5 main speakers happens to be one of my favourites. The center channel.

Ah the center channel speaker, this ladies and gentleman, is where the really important audio comes from. Don’t get me wrong, I love those surround speakers behind me which make me feel like I’m in the middle of the action, but when I want to know what’s going on in a movie, I ask the center channel speaker.

This is where dialogue lives. When someone is speaking on screen, their voice is dead center, and so is the center channel speaker. When people talk to you, they aim their voice right at you, and so does the center channel speaker.

Dialogue is important. Without it, we may as well be watching piano-accompanied silent movies.

Reason 4: Envelopment

5.1 surround sound is more than just having multiple speakers surrounding your head. When you are watching a movie, DVD, video game, etc which has been recorded and made available in 5.1 or some other form of surround sound, what is really happening is that each speaker gets its own identity.

If I hook up 100 speakers and play the same thing through all of them, that is not surround sound.

Think of a basic example. You’re watching a movie and a plane flies into frame from behind you. The sound will first be noticeable from behind you - or at least that’s what the director would have wanted.

That airplane sound is only present in the rear speakers until the plane gets closer and closer, then the front speakers start to pick up the sound, giving you the illusion that the source of that sound is also moving.

Same goes for left to right -think of being at a race, the cars come in from the left, and zoom past you heading off into the distant right. Your left and right speakers aren’t playing the same thing at the same time are they?

This is what envelopes you and makes you feel like you’re right there in the middle of the action!

Reason 5: Mood

Let’s talk more about those little unappreciated speakers in the back of the room. Those surround speakers are what take you from watching a movie to being in the movie.

Your ears hear sounds all around you. Imagine walking through a park on a sunny day. Audible sounds are all around you.

You don’t stop hearing the birds once they’re behind you right? And if you did, it would be downright odd.

In TV shows and especially in movies, things are happening all around the actors. There’s the creek babbling in the background, the wind blowing, and the birds chirping, and unless you were actually there during the filming, won’t get to hear it the way it should be heard without those rear surround speakers.

Reason “.1”: Bass

I won’t even use a clever title for one simple reason: bass is important, there’s no point in denying it.

Whether it’s an action film, or a romantic comedy, you had better believe that there are low frequency sounds that you are meant to hear, and without a subwoofer, or another speaker capable of producing those low notes, you are not hearing them.

Ever have someone tell you that you sound different in person than you do over the phone? I thought so, don’t worry, happens to me too.

The reason is because phones do not reproduce certain frequencies. They purposely cut off low (and high) frequencies. How would you like to walk around in real life sounding like you do on the phone?

Frequency range is important. Have you ever taken a speaker, and turned it around to face away from you? Muffled huh? Well without getting into the boring details about high frequencies being more directional, I’ll just say that when you can’t hear a certain range, the change in the audio can be drastic.

If you want a demonstration of how important sound really is (maybe even some of what you're missing in your current setup!), give me a call at 847.471.4420 or email me at keith@inspired-electronics.com. I'll be happy to set up a demo for you in our showroom.

Or, visit us on the web at http://www.inspired-electronics.com to get more information about how Inspired Electronics, Inc. can help you get the most audio and video bang for your buck.

Thanks -
Keith Rose

Plasma vs. LCD TVs

2009-04-01T16:02:00.006-05:00

Not a week goes by where someone doesn’t ask me whether a Plasma or LCD TV is better. I’m actually getting that question more frequently than I used to.

Now, you’ll hear a lot of talk about Plasma vs. LCD TVs, and a lot of that talk is pretty outdated.

That’s why I’m going to give you my “2-3 years ago” answer, and then follow it up with my “today” answer.

And just to keep things fun, (and not to mention easy to read) I’m going to try to keep this very short and sweet. Imagine you asked me this question on an elevator, and we only have a few minutes to talk about it.

So, here’s my “2-3 years ago” answer:

At the time, I would have said that Plasmas are great because they come in larger sizes like 42” and above, and they handle motion smoothly with great black levels. This means dark scenes in movies don’t look washed out, they actually look detailed.

But plasmas were big and heavy, so mounts were generally expensive. They also sucked up power like crazy, and they didn’t typically come in higher resolutions. When you did come across a high resolution, they were pretty darn expensive.

LCD TVs were nice because they tended to have higher resolutions. So it was easier to find, say, a 1080p LCD than it would be to find a 1080p plasma. They were also lighter, came in smaller sizes and took up less power than plasmas. Some people said that because of that, they lasted a bit longer than plasma TVs.

On the other hand, they tended to have poor black levels, meaning dark images tend to look bright and washed out – think more grey than black. Many LCD’s also had a tendency to blur images during fast motion.

All in all, if you were looking for a “home theater” type of TV, to go with a dimly lit room, comfy chairs and surround sound, I’d have said pick plasma.

If you were looking for a bedroom or kitchen TV, secondary TV, or something to display your computer on, pick an LCD.

Now for the “Today” answer:

Take your pick. I mean, really, as long as you stick with good brands, and don’t opt for the cheapest TV out there, chances are very good that you’ll be happy with either plasma or LCD.

Some of the things I still mention:

- Plasmas still don’t come in smaller sizes, so if you want a kitchen countertop TV, it’s going to be an LCD.

- Although plasmas have gotten better, LCDs still take less power. In today’s environmentally-conscious world, that’s a real factor.

- Plasmas are still HEAVY!

- LCD’s have gotten way, way better with black levels. But I have to mention that the LCD’s that handle black levels great are generally more expensive than a comparable plasma, which has been doing it great for years.

- LCD’s have gotten much, much better at motion, especially with the introduction of 120 Hz TVs. If you haven’t seen one, give me a call. I will arrange to meet you at our showroom so you can see one in person. Seriously, my number is at the bottom.

Now if you really want to sit down and get bored to tears over the details, I’ll be more than happy to talk with you, but typically, the preceding is all I really say about plasma vs. LCD anymore.

I will say this again though; don’t be fooled by the tempting, cheap TVs out there. All my current generalizations about plasma vs. LCD pretty much go out the window when you’re talking about extremely low budget TVs… because they’re pretty much living in the past.

Ah one more thing… you know those articles where the author sits nicely on the fence and provides a nice balanced argument for both sides and doesn’t push his or her opinion on the reader?

This isn’t exactly one of those articles.

I’m actually going to go out on a limb here and proclaim my love for LCD TVs. I’ve installed plasmas and LCDs all over town, and while I have nothing bad to say about plasmas, I still personally choose LCD to grace my walls.

If you’re really curious as to why, give me a call at 847.471.4420 or email me at keith@inspired-electronics.com and we’ll chat.

If you'd like to learn more about what we do here at Inspired Electronics, Inc., visit our website at www.inspired-electronics.com.

Take care, everyone!

-Keith

Inspired Electronics, Inc. now carries Martin Logan Speakers

2009-03-23T18:11:00.008-05:00

One of the things I like most about this industry is that I get to work with a bunch of really, really cool electronic stuff. The other thing I love is the look of pure delight on our clients’ faces when they see and hear a well-designed home theater system come to life in their own living room or basement.

Since we get to work with cool stuff, and we get to demo new lines as they come out, we feel we have a responsibility to only recommend the best products that fit within a client’s design guidelines and budget.

For some people and rooms, that means a great workhorse all-in-one home theater system, while others have in mind something more sophisticated and elegant.

With that in mind, I’m pleased to announce that Inspired Electronics, Inc. has been selected to join the elite ranks of dealers authorized to sell and install Martin Logan speakers.

Martin Logan uses a unique electrostatic panel design to reproduce the higher frequencies, combined with a traditional cone speaker to handle the lower frequencies.

The electrostatic panel actually has less mass than the air it moves, which makes it incredibly responsive to even the most subtle nuances of sound, like the whisper of a violinist’s fingers on the strings, or the rustling of the grass in your favorite movie.

Martin Logan speakers have some unique characteristics that really beg for a professional to install and position them properly. For example, a slight amount of toe-in or toe-out can change the tonal balance and imaging of the speakers, which allows us to compensate for more or less acoustically absorptive rooms. Naturally, we take this into consideration when installing the speakers, but we really recommend a full audio calibration in order to get the most out of your speakers.

If you’d like to hear these or one of the other speaker lines we carry, or if you’d like to see the LCDs, plasmas, projectors, control systems, distributed audio, or any of the other systems we carry, call Keith at 847.471.4420 or email keith@inspired-eleectronics.com to schedule an appointment.

We’d love to put a new home theater system in your home, whether it’s Martin Logan speakers or one of the other excellent brands we carry. So please, call us today at 847.471.4420 to schedule your free in-home consultation, or visit us on the web at http://www.inspired-electronics.com/ to learn more about our company and how we can help you!

Thanks -

Rob

A Word on Brands

2009-03-19T11:04:00.001-05:00

There seem to be countless companies out there all doing roughly the same thing, so how does one decide amongst the hundreds of companies out there, which will have the right product for them?

Since the introduction of high definition, and most notably, flat screen TVs, there seem to be more and more TV companies out there all claiming that they’re the best.

Choosing speakers is possibly more daunting… I’m in the industry and I couldn’t even name all the companies out there selling loudspeakers.

It’s the same deal with DVD players, media servers and remote controls. It’s enough to make you throw up your arms in surrender. So how do you choose?

Well, I’ve got my favorite brands that I’ve used, installed and enjoyed, so naturally my view on which brands are the “best” will be slightly biased… so I’m making a conscious effort here not to name names, at it were.

Instead, let me share some advice when you’re thinking about buying a product, building a system, or hiring an installation company.

1) Think back to any product you’ve owned in the past, and more importantly, think back to products you’ve had which have broken… got one in mind? Good. Now, how did the company treat you?

Were the tech support people helpful? Or were you shuffled around before you were able to find someone who would help? With any product, there is a chance of something going wrong. I wish I could say one company out there makes a perfect product, but the reality is that no one can guarantee you perfection.

The best products often come from companies who pay close attention to their clients, big or small. If a company really listens to you, chances are they’ve also put that much care into their product.

2) How diverse is the company you’re considering buying from? Kind of an odd question, but stick with me for a moment.

No company out there (especially an electronics company) can do everything, and do everything well. When you spread yourself too thin, chances are the quality gets spread thin as well.

Now, I will say that there a few companies out there with a very large breadth of products, who make some good equipment… however, even in those companies who make a wide variety of products, they usually tend to do one or maybe two things truly well.

Look for companies who focus on a specialty. If a company is good at something, truly good, and has a dedication to it, they tend to immerse themselves in it, and take great pride in making a fantastic product. Those who offer a “solution for everything” usually haven’t thought too hard about any of those “solutions” hard enough.

3) Ask around! If it’s one thing I know from experience, it is that you will get widely differing opinions from each person you talk with… however, ask enough people, and sooner or later you’re going to spot a trend or two.

When you hear a great comment about a product or company, stick it in the back or your mind and wait for confirmation. Same goes for when you hear something bad.

When you start hearing the same or similar thing over and over again, that’s the time to take real notice. It’s very rare to hear the same story, from different sources, and there not be at least some truth to it.

I bring this point up last, because I want to end on this note. When the time comes, and you’re really serious about investing in home entertainment and home electronics, it pays to have opinions you can trust, and we at Inspired Electronics, Inc. would sincerely like to offer ours. That’s what we’re here for.

We take an honest approach to our work, and consider as many aspects of our client’s project before offering advice. And having dealt with a wide variety of products out there, we’ve heard tons of opinions and have also had the opportunity to confirm or deny them as a result of hands on experience.

The most important thing to us is that our clients have the best possible products and service that also fit their needs and budget. We deliver the best possible service both when we install your system, and if something should go wrong. We focus strictly on Audio, Video, and Automation systems. And our clients consistently give us great marks on our knowledge and service. Want to learn more about how we can help? Call me at 847-471-4420, and I will personally give you a free initial consultation to help you decide on the right products and brands for your system

Take care everyone!

Keith Rose
Inspired Electronics, Inc.
www.inspired-electronics.com
keith@inspired-electronics.com
847.471.4420

Cheap speakers, good speakers, and expensive speakers

2009-03-12T14:43:00.002-05:00

Last week, I spent some time talking about room modes in bass frequencies. I know, it was very technical and pretty dry - I'll work on making these articles a bit less dry in the future!

This week, I want to cover a question that I get pretty often - does it really make sense to spend money on expensive speakers? Don't the inexpensive speakers do the same thing, for a whole lot less money?

When I was in graduate school, one of the first things I learned is that the answer to every question is, "it depends." And that statement really holds true here.

Speakers really do come in absolutely every price range - from the tiny little cones that put out the music in your $20 clock radio to $60,000 each top-end Krell speakers. And you need to buy a dedicated amplifer for each of those!

A quick story about the Krells - not long ago, I had the chance to demo those speakers. The demo used a western movie as source material. All of the characters were sneaking around the old mining town, getting into position. Each footstep was crisp and clear, and you could easily hear the tumbleweeds rolling around the dusty street. When the main characters faced off, their ragged breathing was audible. And then the first shot rang out.

I was sitting in the second row of seats, and I happened to be wearing a dress shirt and tie. When that shot and the ensuing battle came over the loudspeakers, the drivers moved so much air that my shirt sleeves actually flapped in the breeze!

Do speakers make a difference? Well, those Krells certainly helped me to feel like I was in the middle of the action in a way that the clock radio speaker never could.

Is it worth spending $60,000 each ($300,000 for a 5-channel home theater) on speakers in order to get great sound? Well, for those clients who want nothing but the best, and price is no object, certainly it's worth it. And those speakers would be paired with top-of-the line amplifiers, video projector, screen, lighting control, seats, and a control system. In other words, the entire system is well-balanced between audio, video, seating, and control.

But for those clients with a more modest budget, I still believe it's well worth spending an amount on the speakers that's commensurate with the rest of the system. After all, why would you spend $1000, $5000, $20,000 on a flat panel or projection system, and then skimp on the speakers? Sound provides a large part of the movie or sports event experience.

Our rule of thumb is that we recommend clients to spend about as much on the audio portion of the system as they do on the video portion.

Does that mean that just because a speaker is more expensive, that it's better? No, of course not. It's easy enough to find expensive speakers that sound pretty bad. But finding good speakers in any price range is also easy to do, and if you rely on the advice of a trusted A/V professional, you'll be able to find speakers that perform very well in any price range.

Better speakers will reveal more of the detail and color of the sound, and will sound better in all parts of the room, because they have better off-axis response. That means the sound that you hear off to the side of the speaker is as good as (although may be fainter than) the sound you hear directly in front of the speaker. This is very important because those off-axis sounds have a way of bouncing off of the walls, ceiling, and floor, and reflecting to all parts of the room. If there are significant off-axis flaws, those can make the speaker sound horrible when you play a movie or music through them.

And just because a speaker sounds good in a showroom doesn't mean it will sound as good in your room. Your room is an integral part of the audio system, and has a profound impact on the overall sound (remember the article on room modes).

If you're looking for the best possible sound and video experience within any budget, call your local experts! Inspired Electronics, Inc. is one of just a handful of companies in Illinois certified for both audio and video calibration, and we can make your room sound better. Call us today at 847-471-4420 to set up an initial consultation.

An overview of Room Modes - Bass Frequency concerns in small rooms

2009-03-04T07:30:00.004-06:00

So far in this blog we've discussed horn vs. cone speakers, box vs. architectural speakers, and an overview of speakers in general.

Today I'd like to provide a little background on the physics of sound, which will lead to a future entry on subwoofers/satellites vs. full-range speakers.

In the days when I first started playing with and learning about audio, the only way to get full-range sound (both good low frequencies and good high-frequencies) was to use a good full-range speaker. At its core, a full-range speaker contains one or more cones and/or horns in a single box, and the aggregate device reproduces all sounds from the lowest to the highest.

Cheap full-range speakers had only a single cone (or horn) that had to deliver all sound frequencies at the same time. Better speakers had two cones, a driver or woofer for low frequencies and a tweeter for high-frequencies. There was a crossover circuit that fed low-frequency sound to the driver, and high-frequency sound to the tweeter. The best full-range speakers added a mid-range cone and more crossover circuitry. Some more exotic speakers had multiple tweeters, mid-ranges, and even woofers to deliver more power or punch in those frequency ranges.

Note that all of these sounds are delivered from a single box. This means that all of the sounds come from essentially the same place in the room.

However, research by Floyd Toole and others over the last 40 years or so has essentially demonstrated that, depending on the frequency, sound can have very different characteristics. High-frequency sounds are very directional, while low-frequency sounds are omni-directional - they radiate in all directions.

Low-frequency sounds, also known as bass, have the further characteristic of long wavelengths. The wavelength of a bass frequency ranges from about 56.5 feet (at 20 Hz) to 11.3 feet (at 100 Hz). Relative to a typical listening room in a home (which we consider to be a "small" room when compared to concert halls), these are very long waves, and have very different characteristics than higher frequency sounds that have wavelengths measured in inches or fractions of inches.

When a high-frequency sound is produced in a small room, the directional sound travels in one direction to a boundary (wall, floor, ceiling), and bounces to the next boundary, etc. until its energy is dissipated. This means when the speaker is pointed at the listener, the sound travels directly to the listener's ears, and also bounces off the walls. These secondary "bounces" hit the listener's ears a few milliseconds later than the original direct sound. Third- and fourth-order reflections hit the ear even later. At these frequencies, the human ear is very good at combining and differentiating those reflections. In fact, the earlier reflections actually reinforce the original sounds, making the listener's perception clearer and stronger.

Later reflections, on the other hand, are perceived as echoes. They are so far out in time from the original sound that the ear cannot recombine them into the original sound, but rather perceives them as a separate sound.

Low-frequency sounds act very different. The wavelengths are long relative to the room, and they emanate from the speaker in all directions. Every room will have one specific frequency for which the room length exactly matches the length of the sound wave. It will also have a frequency for which the room width exactly matches the sound wave length, and a third for which the room height matches the wavelength.

Let's consider just one of these for the moment - the frequency at which the wavelength exactly matches the length of the room.

When the sound emanates from the speaker at one end of the room, it travels the length of the room to the opposite wall, and bounces back and forth between the front and back wall. These reflections will reinforce themselves - the peak of the wave will be higher, and the valley of the wave will be lower. This is called a standing wave.

You can hear this effect very easily by putting a subwoofer in a room and sending a pure test tone through it. By varying the tone, it's easy to find a frequency that is too loud in one spot, but too soft in another. Quite literally, you can find a "hotspot" for that frequency, where it's too loud, and then take a step or two in any direction, only to have that sound completely disappear! This frequency is called a "room mode", and it also happens for wavelengths that are 1/2, 1/3, etc. of the room length.

Of course, this is all basic physics, so with a little math we can predict which frequencies will cause a room mode. Since every room has dimensions, it's impossible to completely eliminate room modes. However, by understanding what causes a room mode, we can compensate for them by proper subwoofer placement, multiple subwoofers, parametric equalizers, or other mechanisms of good audio design.

If you want the best possible sound out of your audio equipment, whether it's your home theater, stereo system, or even a mixing room, classroom, or auditorium, call your local experts! Inspired Electronics, Inc. is one of just a handful of companies in Illinois certified for both audio and video calibration, and we can make your room sound better. Call us today at 847-471-4420 to set up an initial consultation.

Distributed Audio options

2009-02-23T17:56:00.002-06:00

Rob Schultz, President of Inspired Electronics, Inc., was recently published in Electronic House magazine's Ask a Pro section. Read the original article here: http://www.electronichouse.com/article/q_how_much_power_do_i_need_for_multiroom_audio or continue reading.

Q. I just moved into a house that is pre-wired for speakers & volume controls in 3 rooms, 2 outdoor porches, a media room and a family room. I will be buying a new receiver and amplifier but don’t know how much power I need or what Ohm speakers/controls I should get. Any budget conscious recommendations or guidance for a 1st time do-it-yourselfer? - John, Dallas TX

Rob Schultz, of Inspired Electronics, Inc. offers up this solution:

The most basic approach is to have a speaker selector and volume control unit at the head end, and split the output from the receiver. This is simple to install, and pretty inexpensive if the house is already wired. The speaker selector must be impedence matching, which means there’s a switch that lets you tell it how many speaker pairs there are. When you select the right number of speakers, the unit adjusts for the impedence of the speakers so you don’t blow the amplifier. The main drawback of this sytem is that you can only control what’s playing and the volume in the main room. So when your favorite song comes on, you have to run to the main room to turn it up!

You can also use a speaker selector in the main room with individual volume controls in each room. Hopefully the pre-wire has service loops to the right volume control locations, and you know where those are! Use impedence matching volume controls in this scenario. Now you can adjust volume in each room, but you still have to go back to the main room to change what’s playing.

For either option, we plan a minimum of 20 watts per zone, and 40 watts for outdoor zones or large rooms, and we spec 8 Ohm speakers. For more zones or when more volume is desired, we use either a high-power stereo receiver with a speaker selector, or a low-power receiver with a distribution amplifier, such as the Niles 1230 (12 x 30 watts) or Niles 1260 (12 x 60 watts).
By splitting your audio signal, you decrease power and volume by as many ways as you have zones. So if you have a 50 watt amplifier split 5 ways, you get only 10 watts per zone - not even enough for background music.

More advanced options allow you to control the equipment from each room, provide metadata feedback on the keypads, and play different sources in different rooms.

If you're interested in having audio throughout your home or business, visit our web site at http://www.inspired-electronics.com, or call Keith at (847) 471-4420.

Architectural speakers

2009-02-02T21:58:00.006-06:00

In my last post, I talked about box speakers. These have a well-earned reputation for having the best sound at any given price point.

But architectural speakers (those that are built into the structure, such as in-wall and in-ceiling speakers) have made great strides over the last few years, so that the best architectural speakers are pretty close to box speakers at a similar price point.

The main advantage architectural speaker have over box speakers is that they can blend in with the room, and they don't take up any space. After all, if you bring in an interior designer, or just spend a lot of your own time and energy putting together the perfect room, do you really want to muck it up with speakers? Sure, those boxes may be great in the theater or game room, but what about the living room or dining room, where there aren't a bunch of other electronics in view?

Many people are even willing to give up some of the audio quality benefits of box speakers in order to "get the electronics out of the room." After all, you're not watching movies or concert videos in those rooms, you're really just listening to background music.

Of course, when your favorite song comes on, what do you do? If you're like me (or my wife!), you want to turn it up. And this is where poor speakers really start to show their deficiencies, regardless of whether they're boxes or in-walls.

There are a couple of factors that give box speakers an advantage over architectural speakers. Those factors can be mitigated or even overcome by good speaker design and proper installation.

First, the box is a resonance chamber. The chamber is designed during the speaker design process, and can be changed during early prototype testing to give the speaker the proper tone, timbre, and resonance. With a built-in speaker, the wall becomes the resonance chamber. You may have a big open box, there may be firebreaks in the wall (making a smaller resonance chamber) or there may be insulation in the wall (absorbing some of the sound). For in-ceiling speakers you may even have a huge void (the attic) behind the speaker.

Good installation can help here. First, insist that the installer use a back box that's designed for the speaker. Since the back box is designed before production, you will get many of the same characteristics as a box speaker, and you will avoid most of the problems of architectural speakers. Generally, back boxes are available for in-ceiling speakers and higher-end in-wall speakers. However, the back boxes may not fit well in a standard 2x4 wall, or may be too high for the cavity above the ceiling. In addition, some back boxes are designed as pre-construction boxes, which mean they must be installed before the drywall is put up.

The second advantage box speakers have over architectural speakers is their inherent rigidity. The box is joined on all edges, and is usually made of MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard). This construction is highly resistant to the types of forces that speakers generate when asked to deliver high sound output. Architectural speakers, on the other hand, usually have an ABS plastic or aluminum "spider" - a sort of cage that houses the driver and magnets. Since there are narrow legs separated by relatively wide gaps, the speaker is much more susceptible to those forces, which can flex the entire speaker out of shape, forcing the cone to be out of shape. Of course, this can impair the sound quality at those volume levels.

Again, proper installation is a good first line of defense. These speakers need to be firmly mounted to a well-constructed wall. In doing so, the speakers gain back some of their stiffness. In particular, if you can attach the speakers to 3/4 or 1" drywall which is glued and tightly screwed to good wooden studs, the speaker will have gained considerable stiffness. And a good back-box will also help to stiffen up the speaker - indeed, most better architectural speakers are designed to work best with a back-box. Beyond that, some speakers have specific design characteristics which help with this problem. James Loudspeakers, for example, have an integrated back-box made out of welded aircraft aluminum. These are essentially box speakers that are designed to fit inside the wall. And other speakers have aluminum or more exotic spiders, which further reduce flexing.

For a professional opinion on what speakers will work best in your listening environment, call Inspired Electronics, Inc. at 847.471.4420 for a free in-home consultation, or visit our web site at http://www.inspired-electronics.com/.

Free-standing or Box speakers

2008-10-27T13:53:00.004-05:00

What do you envision when you hear the word "speaker"? I know some people think of a person on a podium addressing an audience, but for those of us in the audio and video realm, we think of something that generates sound - the final link in the process that starts with a microphone and enables sound to be captured, transmitted, and replayed.

And for most of us, that thing looks like a box.

We'll talk about other options (in-wall, in-ceiling, etc.) in another article. But right now, I'd like to talk about this most common type of audio speaker.

In previous articles, I talked about the different driver types (cones, domes, horns, ribbons, and others). The box is really just the enclosure that houses the driver and associated electronics.

However, that box is also an important element in the acoustical properties of the speaker. If the box is the wrong size, shape, or made of the wrong materials, it will affect the efficiency and the sound quality of the speaker.

For example, many speaker enclosures are made of MDF (medium-density fiberboard) covered with a lacquer or wood laminate. The lacquer or laminate is to help the box look good in your living room (MDF is not very pretty!). But the MDF is what really provides the acoustical properties.

The box itself serves as a resonance chamber and contains the sound emanating from the back of the speaker. This enclosure needs to be made of an acoustically inert substance to reduce "sympathetic vibrations" which can lead to the speaker "walking" across the floor, or even shaking itself apart! Lead or concrete would be excellent, except they're too heavy. MDF, on the other hand, provides a reasonable balance between weight and acoustical properties. Some manufacturers make their enclosures out of other materials as well. For example, high-end speaker manufacturer James Loudspeakers makes the enclosures out of aircraft aluminum, which has excellent audio qualities. But they still have to make a nice-looking outer shell.

The construction of the box is important, too. It needs to be completely sealed, or some of the sound will leak out of the enclosure instead of being sent in the direction of the listener. This keeps the sound from the back of the speaker from mingling with the sound from the front of the speaker. This is important because the speaker actually creates sound both when it moves forward and when it moves backward. The sound created by the backward motion is 180 degrees out of phase with the forward sound, which means if the two mingle, they will cancel each other out!

If you'd like to learn more about which speakers are right for your home theater or audio setup, please visit us online, or call us at 847.471.4420.

An overview of Horn Speakers

2008-10-26T17:48:00.002-05:00

Horn Speakers are often considered to be of excellent quality, but the reality is that quality varies greatly depending on price and intended application. There are a couple of high-end speaker manufacturers such as Klipsch and Fostex that have well-designed horns, but remember that horns are also used in bullhorns and low-quality outdoor loudspeakers, which have very limited ranges.

Horn speakers use the interaction between the horn and the driver to increase the efficiency of the speaker. This allows a speaker to generate a higher volume for the same power input and distortion level. However, the same properties that increase the voume limit the frequency range. So a bullhorn can generate a high volume of sound using small batteries, but only in the frequency range of the human voice.

In order to compensate for this, some horn speakers use multiple drivers (with appropriately tuned horns) to cover the entire frequency range. Others use horns primarily for one frequency range (e.g. for the tweeters), and use standard cone drivers for the rest of the frequency range. Most Klipsch speakers fall into this category. Of course, there are always some manufacturers that save money by not adequately covering the entire range of hearing.

If you're looking for horn speakers or any other type of speakers for your home theater or home audio system, visit Inspired Electronics, Inc. on the web!

A little about cone speakers

2008-10-26T16:46:00.005-05:00

The most common type of speaker is a cone speaker. This speaker has a diaphragm made out of a cone of a fairly stiff material, such as paper, polypropylene, carbon fiber, or aluminum, although other more exotic materials have been used. The diaphagm moves back and forth, pushing air out into the room, generating the sounds you hear.

The best material for a speaker cone is something that has low mass, good stiffness, and good damping properties. The low mass improves the speakers efficiency, meaning less power is needed to drive the speaker. If the material is not stiff enough, it won't generate clean sounds, especially at higher frequencies and higher volumes. And if there's not enough damping, the speaker will have a characteristic "ringing" sound.

Interestingly, paper is a good speaker material, because it has all of the properties needed. However, paper has the disadvantage of not handling moisture well (including changes in humidity). Polypropylene is used often in in outdoor or high moisture applications. Aluminum and other metal cones are light and stiff, but often don't have sufficient damping properties, and can sound too "bright". Fiberglass, Kevlar and Carbon Fiber have good properties, but can increase the cost of the speakers. So if you're interested in good speakers, and willing to pay a little more, we often recommend these materials.

The mechanism that moves the cone back and forth is a large magnet and an electromagnet. These two work together to vibrate the cone, compressing and decompressing the air, and generating sound waves. Note that the speaker generates sound in both directions. Since the reverse direction is exactly opposite the forward direction (180 degrees out of phase), care must be taken to ensure the reverse sound doesn't cancel out the forward sound!

In order to provide a stiff frame for the magnets to drive against, the speaker has a "spider", which is a stiff cage. Many spiders are made from a stiff plastic, while others are made of aluminum or another metal. At one time, spiders were made of Bakelite, but plastic and aluminum are much more durable. Plastic is light and inexpensive, but can distort under high load (high volume).

Speakers also have a flexible surround which binds the cone to the frame. This surround also keeps the sound generated by the reverse direction of the cone from coming around to the front and canceling the sound generated by the forward direction. In many older speakers, the surrounds have degraded to the point where this happens, and the speakers need to be repaired or replaced.

I'll talk more about speaker types and speaker design in future Blog postings, so stay tuned!

In the meantime, visit us on the web to learn more about how we can install a home theater or distributed audio system for you!

The importance of speakers

2008-10-26T15:15:00.005-05:00

If you're listening to music, watching TV, or even talking on the phone, you're using speakers. Speakers, after all, are what translates recorded or broadcast material into sound waves that you can actually hear.

And the quality and type of speakers has a tremendous impact on how good that material sounds.

For example, have you ever sat on hold listening to your favorite song? I'll bet you found it at least somewhat annoying, because you couldn't hear all of the nuances of the music that you're used to.

That's because telephone speakers (in the earpiece, or even on a speakerphone), are not what we call full-range speakers. They're only designed to reproduce the human speaking tones, which range from about 110Hz for a low male voice, to about 1000 Hz for a higher female voice, up to about 3000 Hz for a child's scream.

On the other hand, the full range of human hearing is from about 20 Hz to about 20,000 Hz (20 KHz). Good full-range speakers reproduce all of that sound, and the entire range is used in music and movies. If you're not hearing the upper and lower ranges, you're missing a lot of important information in the sound track - and it just doesn't sound good!

Now, consider the speakers you're using for your current TV and movie-watching. If you're like many people, you listen through the speakers that came with the TV. Fortunately, TV manufacturers tend to be really good at video - unfortunately, audio is not really their specialty.

Many people consider these speakers to be "courtesy speakers" - that is, speakers that are included to allow you to set up and watch the TV without having to do a lot of work. But that doesn't make them good.

Lots of people have tried hooking their TV into their stereo, which usually results in far better sound than with just the TV speakers. We often hook up "surround sound" receivers and speakers - and the results are tremendous! Click here for more information on our home theater installations.

There are, of course, wide variances in the sound range of different types of speakers, so be sure the speakers you select will cover the entire range.

In the next few blogs, I'll talk about different aspects of speakers.

In the meantime, please visit us on the web at http://www.inspired-electronics.com/, or call us at 847.471.4420. We can answer your audio and video related questions, and help you get set up for the best home theater!

Lighting Control - Safety, comfort, ambience, and energy savings

2008-09-17T21:08:00.003-05:00

I can't believe it's nearly fall already! I had some appointments this evening, and when I left the house, it was fully daytime. But when I came home, it was pitch-dark - and I had forgotten to turn on the lights.

I don't know about you, but I hate coming home to a dark house. It's not very inviting, I'm liable to stumble over a toy that one of my kids left laying around, and although I live in an extremely safe neighborhood, I know some of my friends worry that someone might be using the darkness to cover up something they shouldn't be doing.

Now imagine if, when you come home to a dark house like that, a set of lights come on automatically for you. Maybe you push a button (next to your garage door opener?), or maybe there's a sensor that detects a car coming in the driveway. Either way, when that set of lights comes on, you immediately have a sense of welcome, comfort, and safety!

Now, consider for a moment that you've gone to bed. Suddenly, you think "did I turn off the basement lights?" Instead of getting up, putting on your bathrobe, going all the way down into the basement, turning off the light, going all the way back upstairs (getting your blood flowing and energy levels up), and trying to get back to sleep - what if you could just press one button on your nightstand, and rest assured that all the lights in the house were set for night time?

And think of having a party. Perhaps you want to set a bright, cheery atmosphere. Lots of lights (but not glaring!), maybe some spotlights on some of your prized possessions, and lights off where you prefer guests not wander. How many switches and dimmers do you need to set in your home to get just the right ambience? And right before a party - who has time for that?!?

If you had a single button that could set all the lights exactly the way you wanted them, and maybe another for all lights on (cleaning or emergency), and another for a romantic evening with your spouse... wouldn't that be the greatest invention since the light bulb itself?

We can install a lighting control system that can do all of those things for you. And we can do it in both new homes and existing homes! As long as you have existing wiring in the home, or are putting wiring into the home, we can ensure that you have lighting control that makes your life safer, easier, and more fun.

Oh, did I mention that this will save money, too? By controlling the lighting levels to give you exactly the light you need, you will draw less power, thus reducing your energy bills, lowering your carbon footprint, and making your home more comfortable.

Visit our website at http://www.insired-electronics.com/ or call us today at 847.471.4420 to find out how we can do that!

- Rob

Video scaling

2008-03-15T16:29:00.004-05:00

I hear a lot of questions about video upconversion. I was talking with a client recently about a big-box retailer's recommendation to buy a receiver with built-in HDMI upconversion and switching. He wanted to know what that meant, and whether it was true that he needed it.

This is a pretty interesting issue, and is one of the reasons you should use an integrator like Inspired Electronics, Inc. instead of a big-box retailer - we truly understand the nuances of what's going on inside all of these boxes!

First, remember that all of your source components may output different resolutions. For example, a Blu-Ray player or good up-converting DVD player will output 1080p (or lower if you tell it to). A high-def cable or satellite receiver will put out either 1080i or 720p, depending on the signal coming from the cable/satellite company. Of course, any standard definition material is output in 480i (standard definition). And that old VCR that I integrated into my family room system sends out 480i as well.

Naturally, the TV will show the exact resolution that it was manufactured for (e.g. a 1080p display will show 1080 lines of resolution, a 720p display will show 720 lines, and a 480i display will show 480 lines - interlaced).

So how do you get the source format converted to the display format? Well, that's where a video scaler comes in. For the best possible quality, you will want an outboard dedicated video scaler box. Sometimes called a line-doubler or video upconverter, this dedicated piece of equipment takes any input format, and converts it to the appropriate output format, with truly excellent results. Of course, the price matches, with these dedicated units running $2000-4000 or more.

Your Blu-Ray or upconverting DVD player also does an excellent job of matching your source DVD to the TV. But, of course, it can only do this for DVDs.

The next choice then, really comes down to either the TV or a receiver with built-in switching and video processing capabilities.

The TV, naturally, knows its native resolution. So the scaler circuitry only has to convert to a single resolution - that of the TV.

The receiver doesn't know what resolution it's going to be driving when its built, so it has to be able to output all resolutions. So to achieve the same result, it will need more circuitry.

Now, some receivers will not handle any video processing at all. This keeps their cost down, but you have to run all video cables from the source device to the TV. If you have limited inputs on the TV and lots of sources, you may not be able to plug them all in. And if your source equipment is on the other side of the room from the TV, you will need to spend extra money on cables. 50' HDMI cables aren't cheap!

Other receivers will do what's called "video switching". This means they will send whatever signal comes in to the display over a single cable (usually HDMI or Component). But they don't change the signal - a 480i signal coming in on an S-Video input will go to the TV over the HDMI cable still at 480i. Usually, the receivers with video switching will cost an extra $200-300. But you can easily save that in cabling costs if your sources are a long way from the TV, since you only run one long HDMI cable from the receiver to the TV. The rest of the video cables are short since the components are close to each other in the cabinet.

The receivers that handle video scaling usually cost another $200-300 over the ones with video switching. Of course, the question is whether the scaler in the receiver is better than the one in the TV. At this level, the video scaling isn't bad. But if your TV already does a good job of converting, it's probably not worth adding the extra cost into the receiver unless you need the other features yoon the receiver (such as digital music streaming, additional power, etc.).

To get to a receiver that handles video scaling better than the TV, you will be spending about $1100-1300 more than the basic receiver that handles audio only. You also get other features in the receiver, such as more power, network audio streaming from your PC, and better audio calibration.

Of course, you can spend much more money on the receiver (I sell one receiver/amplifier pair for $14,000). At this level, you get great audio, great video scaling, 2 additional audio zones, individual amplifiers for each channel, wi-fi connectivity, and a lot more.

So the answer to whether you need a video converter in the receiver really comes down to one question - what's the most cost-effective way to get the video quality levels you want at the lowest cost?

If you're still wrestling with this (or any other home electronics or automation) question, please give me or Keith a call at 847.471.4420. We'd love to help you!

Thanks -
Rob

The $25K Theater

2008-03-05T06:43:00.003-06:00

Over the last few posts, I've talked about what you can get in a home theater for $2,500, $5,000, and $10,000. This week, I'm going to step up a bit and talk about what you can get with a larger budget, in this case, $25,000. I realize that's a pretty big step, and there's a lot of room between $10,000 and $25,000. Just remember, we can tailor any package to your specific budget, so call us now to design your perfect home theater on your perfect budget!

First of all, everything is upgraded. You get better video, better audio, and better control. Quality installation remains the same, but since you'll have a somewhat more complex system, installation time may rise a bit.

Second, we can also add in comfortable theater-style seating and a rack mount to put all of your equipment away where you don't have to see it. This rack can also house other things outside the scope of this post, such as distributed audio gear, home automation equipment, and other "cool stuff" that can make your home much more inviting. We'll talk about all of that some other time!

Equipment Upgrades

At this level, you are almost certainly talking about a 1080p projector, although an upgraded large (greater than 60") plasma or LCD panel would also be comfortable at this level. You may also want to consider one of the best 720p projectors, which will have a brighter lamp, better color options, and may be ISF certified.

Projector vs. Panel
A good 1080p projector at this price point may be a single-chip or a 3-chip model. The 3-chip model will offer better color balance and a more even picture, but will force you to trade something else out for a lower model.

Audio

At the $10,000 level, we stepped up the audio to a multi-zone receiver that can handle an iPod dock. Here, we step up to an even more-powerful receiver that handles the audio processing faster and cleaner, more inputs of more types (especially more inputs that can handle high-definition sources), and can handle more networking functions, including streaming networked audio. You may also be able to drive a third zone of audio, as well as video to other rooms. Although it wouldn't be high-def video at this price point, wouldn't it be great to be able to watch the same movie in the kitchen that the kids are watching in the theater?

We also step up to better speakers at this point. Note that speakers are often the weakest link of the entire audio system, so going to better speakers and really tighten up the sound quality, make the dialog even more understandable, and pull in those nuances that lower levels of speakers just can't reproduce. We would also likely add a second subwoofer into the mix, to even out the bass response. Whenever you have just one subwoofer, there will be "hot" and "dead" spots in the bass frequencies due to the way audio works. A second sub can help to even those out, so more seats are in the "sweet spot".

Note that speaker prices in general range from something that goes into a $10 clock radio to over $50,000 per speaker, so there is really a very wide range in speaker quality.

Control

In the $10K package, we used a candy-bar style remote with Infra-Red (IR) signalling. This is the same technology that you're used to, in the same form factor. But at this price point, we would probably move into a tablet-style touchscreen remote. We'd get rid of the hard buttons and show only the buttons that are relevant to whatever you're doing. We would also be able to customize the backgrounds to show your favorite vacation locale, pictures of the kids, or whatever else you want.

Plus, we would move to Radio-Frequency (RF) based signalling. This lets you not have to worry about pointing the remote at the equipment, and also lets us put the equipment in a cabinet or closet. The equipment really no longer needs to be anywhere near the screen! This is a more reliable system of control, and is much more flexible.

Seating

If you go to a furniture store, you will find a huge array of quality, styles, and price levels for something as simple as a sofa. Theater seating isn't quite as dramatic, but there's still a pretty wide range. In this package, you would probably get 6 or 8 seating locations, with leather seats (possibly with vinyl backs and trim). These are really comfortable seats, and will add to your enjoyment of the system. After all, isn't it better to be more comfortable when you watch your movies?

Racking

In the lower priced-packages, we assumed you already have a shelf or entertainment center in which to put your equipment. But really, one of the greatest advantages of the new flat-panel TVs and in-wall or on-wall speakers is that you get the electronics out of the room.

So at this price-point, we add in a rack system so you can mount all of your equipment in a closet somewhere. If you like to see the equipment, I'd suggest a smoked-glass door on the cabinet so that you can see the equipment, but the LEDs won't be distracting as you watch your movie.

And if you decide you want to get more equipment out of your living space, this rack can also house your whole-home audio system (just put keypads in the walls and speakers in the ceiling), home automation system (lighting control, phone system), and much, much more.

Lighting control

Which reminds me of one more thing that we add at this price point - lighting control.

Imagine when you press "Play" on the remote to start your movie - not only do you get to sit in wonderfully comfortable theater seats, and watch (and hear!) a great looking and sounding movie, you can also watch the lights dim themselves to a comfortable viewing level. And if you press "Pause", the lights can come up part-way so you can find your way around the room. And when the movie is over, the lights can ramp up to normal brightness.

That's the real "cool factor" that you can get in your $25,000 home theater.

Above $25K

If you have the budget to go to another level, you can get even fewer compromises - full leather seating, better speakers, brighter projector at a higher resolution, a themed room (think your favorite movie!), more seating, and even a popcorn machine!

Remember, there are more choices in electronics than you can imagine. Each choice opens up a range of options in other areas - if you spend more on the projector, you may be more limited in your seating choices. Your budget and what's most important to you are the main determining factors.

At Inspired Electronics, Inc., we can help you cut through all of the options to figure out how to maximize your home theater experience within your budget and constraints. Call us today to get started on your project!

For more information on how Inspired Electronics, Inc. can put in your dream home theater, visit our web site at http://www.inspired-electronics.com or call us at 847.471.4420 for a consultation!

Thanks -
Rob

The $10K Theater

2008-02-06T07:32:00.001-06:00

In the last few weeks, I've covered $2500 and $5000 home theaters. But what if you have a bit more of a budget? Perhaps you're planning on a big tax refund, or have been saving for this.

Well, I have to say, $10,000 opens up a whole world of possibilities in home theater. You now have options for a good projector or a large panel display, possibly some seating, and upgraded sound.

I'll talk about two possibilities here: The large panel and the projector. First, we'll talk about everything except the display, then talk about display choices last.

Audio Gear
At this level, we'll move up to a more powerful A/V receiver, and upgrade the speaker package. We'll stick with on-wall speakers at this price point. Although we could easily put in-wall or in-ceiling speakers in to get the equipment out of the room, we'd have to make compromises in other parts of the system to get the same audio quality.

In addition to more power, the receiver also gains some interesting features at this point. In particular, we add iPod compatibility and possibly network integration. This means that you can start to think about internet radio, and streaming your MP3's from networked computers. The receiver can also do upconversion of standard-definition video signals like DVDs, VHS, etc.

Control
For the control system, we move up to a sleeker remote that can handle more complex controls. For example, you can now have the remote remember if your DVD is on or off, and send commands only if they are needed. In our $5,000 system, the remote had to use "brute-force" control methods - force the receiver to always turn on, for example. This "smart-force" approach will reduce the time required to turn on the system, and especially reduce the time required to switch from one mode to another.

Sources
We'll also move from an upconverting DVD player (which improves the look of your standard DVDs, but isn't really high-definition) to a Blu-Ray (or HD-DVD if you prefer) player. This gives you true high definition movies. Some of the more recent Blu-Ray (and all HD-DVD) players also allow for interactive Internet connections, so that you can get more features, play games, get updates on actors, directors, upcoming movies, etc.

Other items of interest
At this level, some people choose to stick with a smaller screen and entry-level sound in order to add home theater seating. Depending on the trade-offs you're willing to make (leather vs. vinyl, size of TV, etc.), you could get 4, 6, or even 8-person seating at this price point.

You may also choose to integrate some lighting control. If you do, you'll be able to really "wow!" your guests by automatically dimming lights when you start a movie, or brightening the room when you pause or stop!

Display
Now we come to the most visible feature of your home theater - the display.

At this price point, you will probably be going for BIG! A 58" plasma would be a great addition to this theater (I chose plasma primarily because at this time, larger plasmas are still less expensive than the equivalent size LCD).

Or, for an even bigger size picture, consider a projector and screen. Depending on the room size, you are probably looking at an 84-106" fixed-mount or manual pull-down screen. You can also opt for a 1080p projector, or a step-up 720p projector.

The 1080p projector would be entry-level (single chip, not as bright, lesss video processing capability). The 720p projector, on the other hand, would have lower resolution (but still hi-def), but would be brighter, and would have better video processing capabilities. The 720p may also have three separate display chips, which will result in better colors and contrast.

Remember, we're a custom installation company, so all of our packages include professional installation, programming, and calibration. Plus, this would include all required cabling, mounting, and instructions on how to use the system (not that you'll need much, given the simplicity of the remotes!).

There are a lot of choices in home theater. This is by no means the only option in this price range - the right home theater for you is really dependent on your tastes, your budget, and your room. Our goal is to work with you to uncover what's most important, so that we can put in a system that is perfect for your room, your tastes, and your budget!

For more information on how Inspired Electronics, Inc. can put in your dream home theater, visit our web site at http://www.inspired-electronics.com or call us at 847.471.4420 for a consultation!

Thanks -
Rob

Your Home Theater Budget - $5000

2008-01-30T07:02:00.001-06:00

Last time, I talked about a $2500 home theater. That's great for a lot of people, but many people want more. Larger screen, more power, better control, etc.

Again, there is a very wide array of options, so don't take this as the only possible system you can get for the money.

In this package, you would step up from stereo sound to 5.1 surround sound, and move to a 46" LCD television. In addition, we could either wall-mount or table-mount the TV, and the receiver, DVD, and your cable or satellite receiver would all be mounted in a cabinet underneath the TV. All equipment would be protected by high-quality surge suppression, and you would get an easy to use one-touch remote control.

To me, the remote is one of the best things about spending a little more money. In my house, we have a one-touch remote. Not long after we put our system in, my wife and I were going out for the evening, and my mother-in-law was watching the kids. Now, my mother-in-law is great at watching kids, but she's not really interested in trying to figure out how to use the collection of remotes in order to "just watch TV". But with the new remote, my daughter (who was 7 at the time), showed her grandmother how to use the TV. "Just press the 'Watch TV' button, Grandma," she said. And with just that one button push, the TV came on, the receiver came on, and the cable box came on, the TV and receiver inputs were set correctly, and she was watching TV!

Of course, the larger TV and the surround sound also improve your TV watching. Most people agree that for sports or movies, a larger TV creates a better experience. And the ability to mount it all on a wall really improves the feel of most rooms.

Since we're an installation company, all of our packages come with installation and calibration. So you don't have to worry about which wires to plug in where, or how to mount the TV to the wall. And we adjust the color and sound to work perfectly in your room. After all, why bother spending $5K on an entertainment system that doesn't sound right, or doesn't look right?

As with everything we sell, we only use quality brands like Samsung, Denon, Canton, and Universal Remote (URC). So you know you're getting solid equipment that will perform well for years, along with reputable warranty support in the event that something does go wrong.

As with any package, you can always make trade-offs. If you want better sound, you could step up to a better receiver and speakers, while switching to a rear-projection TV. If you want a larger screen, you could go back to stereo sound. If you want an even better one-touch remote, you could consider a smaller TV screen. The options are endless, and the answer to the right system lies in your room, your style, and your budget.

Next time, I'll step up to the $10K level. There are a lot more options here, including gaming, ultra-large projection screens, theater-style seating, etc.

For more information on how Inspired Electronics, Inc. can put in your dream home theater, visit our web site at http://www.inspired-electronics.com or call us at 847.471.4420 for a consultation!

Rob

Your Home Theater Budget - $2500

2008-01-28T08:37:00.001-06:00

One of the key factors in putting together a great home theater system is your budget. We will put together the best possible home theater or electronic system for you within your budget, but we do need to have a target budget to work from.

One of the biggest concerns I hear from people is that they really don't know how much these things cost. They see ads for flat panel TVs all over the place, and they seem pretty cheap (for example, a 42" 720p LCD for $800, or a 47" 1080p LCD for $1500), but they know that's not the whole story.

Consider also the mount, the wiring, and the labor to put it all in and make it work. Plus, many people want to add surround sound, which means a receiver and speakers (and speaker wiring and mounts), possibly a DVD or Hi-Def DVD player, and a good programmable remote control. And if you're thinking along the lines of a dedicated room or media room with a projector, you need the screen and projector, plus more wiring to be able to place the projector correctly. Oh, and don't forget power. Most homes don't have outlets where your TV will go, although we're starting to see that in newer homes.

So how much can I expect to spend? Well, over the next few Blog entries, I will talk about a few common systems at various price points. Note that there is an almost infinite variety of choices. I'm not trying to put together the cheapest system by any means, but rather to offer some common choices in the hi-def arena with great quality brands and models. And of course, since installation is our business, installation is included in all of these packages.

I'll start with an entry-level system, coming in at $2500. With the continued drops in television prices, a $2500 home theater isn't really a stretch any more. For this price range, you're looking at either a smallish flat panel (37" or 42"), or a medium sized DLP Rear Projection (say, 50"). Add in a stereo receiver and bookshelf speakers, and a reasonably good upconverting DVD player, and a few cables, and you have all of the basic equipment to make a pretty good audio and video experience. We would mount this equipment on a stand or table that you provide, hook it all together, and calibrate both the audio and the video to give you the best possible picture with that equipment.

All of the equipment here is made by a major manufacturer (Samsung, Denon, Canton), so you have good eqiupment (albeit at the lower end), and reputable warranty support. You don't get surround sound or a one-touch remote, and this would be in your living room, family room, or similar. For some people, this would make a perfect bedroom system.

Of course, you can always make trade-offs. If you want the one-touch remote, you could go with a smaller TV. If you want a bigger TV, consider the rear projection. If you have a little more in your budget, you can move to 5.1 surround sound instead of stereo.

In my next entry, I'll tackle the next level - $5,000. I think you'll be surprised at the additional value you'll get at that level!

For more information about Inspired Electronics, Inc., visit us on the web at http://www.inspired-electronics.com. We look forward to installing your home theater!

Rob

Service and warranties

2007-12-12T10:58:00.000-06:00

Warranties and service. Although issues don't happen very often, when they do come up, we believe it's paramount to resolve them immediately.

We've had a number of calls lately from clients who were unhappy with their current custom installation company. One company left the client without a working TV for 4 months! The TV had some warranty issues, and had been worked on several times over the intervening 4 month period, but still - 4 months is a long time for a new piece of electronics to not be working.

In contrast, we had a warranty issue with one of the systems we installed a few weeks ago. I personally called the manufacturer and arranged for the warranty repair. When the repair tech determined the TV could not be fixed, I handled the return directly. We swapped out the old TV for a new one as soon as the client could arrange time, and the swap-out process took less than an hour. Oh, and we also calibrated the new TV as part of the warranty service!

Even if you didn't buy your system from us, we'll be happy to work with you and the manufacturers of your equipment to ensure the fastest and easiest fixes and upgrades to your system. Let us do the worrying for you!

Our goal is to make your electronics experience as easy as possible. This cuts across all parts of our business, from our proposals, to installation and programming, to service and warranty.

Most of the equipment we sell and install works perfectly for many years. Occassionally, though, something goes wrong. Don't you deserve the best possible worry-free service available?

Thanks -
Rob

The Holiday Season is here!

2007-12-08T16:55:00.000-06:00

Will you be entertaining a house full of people over the next month? Are you just itching to show off your electronics system?

Whether you have a full-blown home theater, whole-home audio system, home automation, or a simple A/V system in your living room or game room, you should test it out a few days before your guests arrive. That way, if there's something not quite right, you can fix it in time to show off for your guests.

Of course, if something isn't working right, and you're not sure what's wrong, please give us a call. We can often walk you through the issue over the phone. If we can't fix it over the phone, we may be able to diagnose the issue enough so that a single service call can fix the problem.

We're also available to give you a refresher on your system operation. If you just can't quite remember how to do all the tricks you know your system is capable of doing, give us a call, and we can help!

After all, you want to be sure your system is at its best when you're entertaining, so your guests can enjoy the comfort and convenience of your electronics system. There's nothing like a little "wow" factor to keep a party going!

Happy Holidays!
Rob

Keith Rose achieves HAA certification!

2007-11-15T06:35:00.000-06:00

A couple of weeks ago, I reported that Keith received his ISF (Imaging Science Foundation) certification for video calibration. Now, I'm pleased to announce that Keith has also received his HAA (Home Acoustic Alliance) certification for audio calibration.

Our certifications, combined with our experience and professional tools allow us to help you get the very best out of your home theater system. While video calibration lets us get the most out of your display by setting the brightness, contrast, color balance, etc. exactly for your room and lighting conditions, audio calibration lets us set the bass and treble levels, find and fix any "hot spots" or "dead spots" in the listening areas, and ensure sound that's as clear and precise as your system can be.

Call Keith today at 847.471.4420 to schedule a full home theater calibration - you'll notice the difference immediately!

Thanks -
Rob

Keith Rose receives ISF certification

2007-11-01T06:59:00.000-05:00

What's that? And why is it important?

The Imaging Science Foundation, or ISF, is an organization dedicated to excellence in video quality. In addition to his extensive experience in performing video calibrations, Keith attended an intense 2-day class and passed a grueling test in order to achieve certification.

The class focused on how TVs display images to the viewer, what goes into an excellent picture, how the picture is created, what film and TV directors do to get the look they want, and of course, how to adjust the TV to obtain the best possible picture for the viewer.

An ISF calibration will improve the quality of your video picture by ensuring the contrast, color balance, brightness, and clarity are as good as they can be on your video screen. A proper calibration will also extend the life of your display and reduce your energy costs.

If you're looking to get the most out of your video and audio system, you owe it to yourself to have an ISF-trained tech properly calibrate your video.

The test was difficult - a large number of candidates do not pass the test the first time. But now that Keith has passed the test, you can be assured that your video calibration will rank with the best in the business!

Congratulations, Keith!
Rob

How big should my TV be?

2007-10-25T06:54:00.000-05:00

Wow, what a great question! I hear it all the time from my clients, and while there are a number of "rules of thumb", ultimately the decision comes down to personal preference.

Still, I'll try to list out some of the things we try to take into consideration when consulting with our clients.

The first thing to consider are your room size. A larger screen will cost more, and a small room will get overpowered by a large TV (and a large room will dwarf a small TV!). Ideally, if you are sitting less than 8-9 feet away from your TV, you will be best served with a 42" or smaller TV. If you are 10-12 feet away, you're looking at up to 50", and greater than 12 feet you'll want a 56-63" or even larger screen. Of course other room considerations come into play as well. For example, the screen needs to balance with the rest of the furnishings, and it needs to physically fit in the space - if you're mounting a flat-panel over the fireplace, you may have limitations because of the ceiling, mantle, fireplace opening, and other built-in elements of the room.

This rule of thumb is tempered by your desire to be immersed in the video. If you really hate that, a smaller screen will let you feel "outside looking in." But if you really want to be immersed in the action, a larger screen size will fill in your peripheral vision with more movie, sports, or video game action, making you part of the action.

Of course, budget plays a role, but to a smaller extent. The reason I say this is because if your budget is smaller, but you still want a really big TV, you can use a rear-projection or front-projection system instead of a panel (LCD or Plasma) TV. Panels generally cost more than projection units at the larger sizes. There are also budget-minded flat panel TVs that do a pretty good job for less money than the name brands. I'd caution, though, against getting caught up in the "cheap panel TV" sales hype that you'll see this holiday season. You really do get what you pay for, and you don't want to be stuck with a picture that's even worse than your old TV!

As always, if you're still confused about all of the options out there, give us a call, and we'll be glad to give you a free consultation!

Thanks -
Rob

Which TV?

2007-10-18T22:06:00.000-05:00

"What TV should I buy?" or "What's the real difference in all of these TV types?"

Those are the questions I get asked most often. There is an answer, but it's probably different for each person. Let's start with the second question - what are the differences in the TV types.

Note that there are actually 5 different TV technologies in use today.

Just a few years ago, the only type of TV you could get was a CRT-based set, also known as a "tube TV". Nice picture, easy to use, and everyone had one (or two, or three...). They were pretty reliable, but very heavy, especially in the larger sizes, and they took up a very large chunk of your room. Many people bought expensive furniture to house these TVs - partly people wanted to hide some of the size and aesthetics of these large electronic boxes. You can still get them, and they are pretty cheap compared to the newer types of TVs. But they're still very huge for a relatively small picture size, and they are still very, very heavy.

Recognizing the desire for larger TV sizes, especially for watching movies and sports, manufacturers started coming out with Rear-projection TVs and Front-projectors. Initially, these were both CRT-based also, but since they projected on a separate screen, the actual size and weight didn't go up as much for the larger sizes. Still very heavy, though. Good front projectors were coffee-table sized, and sat in the middle of your room! Smaller ceiling-mounted projectors were available, but they were also very heavy - you wanted to be certain the projector was mounted securely! Rear projectors had flat screens, and were typically up to 50 inches or so. Compared to the 30-37" screen sizes of the largest CRTs, that was pretty good.

Then came the flat panels. You probably first saw flat panels in computers - my first one was on a laptop. The technology was developed initially to make the computer portable! Then came flat panels for desktop computers - taking up a lot less desk space was well worth the extra money you spent on an LCD display for your computer.

Over the last few years, two types of flat panels have emerged for home entertainment use. When I talk about flat panels here, I'm talking about a screen that's flat, and is only about 3-6 inches deep, regardless of the screen size. These panels fit very well in almost any room and can be mounted on a wall to save even more space.

LCDs, similar to the LCDs used for computer screens, are generally higher resolution (they have more pixels, so they can show more detail), and they tend to be somewhat smaller than their Plasma cousins. But still, 40" LCDs are common today - not bad compared to the largest CRTs of just a few years ago!

Plasmas are also flat panels. Because of the technology and manufacturing process, plasma TVs are more cost effective in the larger sizes. Typical sizes run up to over 60", with the very largest available plasmas coming in at 103"! Originally, plasmas had a lower resolution for the same screen size (720p), but recent plasma entries are up to 1080p, the same as LCDs.

Note that plasma TVs have a glass viewing area, and so are more subject to glare than LCDs, which have a plastic viewing area. Recent plasmas have an anti-glare coating which helps somewhat. On the other hand, plasmas can generate deeper blacks and richer color depth, and have a wider viewing angle than LCDs. Ultimately, which panel is best depends on your viewing habits and room conditions.

Rear-projection TVs no longer use a CRT to generate the picture - they use either a small LCD panel or a mirror panel called a DLP. Either way, the picture generation unit is much lighter than a CRT, and the entire unit can be made thinner and lighter. Current rear projection TVs are as little as 11" thick, compared to up to 2" for an older CRT-based unit (and compared to 3-5" for a panel TV). Rear-projection TVs are less expensive than either LCD or Plasma TVs for the same size, but can't produce the same black levels and color richness. They also have a relatively narrow viewing angle - if you look at them from a 45 degree angle or greater, the picture will be noticeably darker.

Front projectors these days can either sit on a table top or be mounted to the ceiling. You still need a screen, and the prices of both screens and projectors range from pretty inexpensive to wildly expensive, depending on the features and resolution you want. You have the ability to customize your screen size and resolution for your own room and viewing pleasure, and you can get as big as you like. Front projectors typically work best in a room where the light can be well controlled. But you can get a really, really big screen, so if you want a true theater experience, this may be your best bet!

Still not sure what's right for you? Give us a call here at Inspired Electronics, Inc., and we'll be glad to provide a free in-home consultation to help you decide what's best for you!

- Rob

Fireplace TVs

2007-10-11T07:07:00.001-05:00

We get a lot of calls to mount TVs over the fireplace.

From a design perspective, this makes a lot of sense. It pulls the room together, giving it one focal point, instead of two. It also saves a lot of space in the room, and it makes furniture placement a lot easier - you don't have to lay out the furniture to be able to see both the fireplace and the TV at the same time!

Overall, we really like the look of putting the TV over the fireplace - in fact, one of the key ads in our ad campaign shows a wonderfull view of a modern living room with the TV over the fireplace.

While fireplaces are an excellent place to put the TV, they can also be a bit more difficult than standard on-wall installations. For example, the fireplace front may be made out of brick or stone, or there may be a mantle right where we need to put the TV. And usually, builders don't put electrical outlets and cable raceways where we need them. Since one of the advantages of locating the TV over the fireplace is a nice, clean look, it's important to have a way to hide both the video wiring and the power cables.

While these installations can take us a bit longer, we have several partners that we work with to help move the electricity, remove or remount the mantle, and ensure a clean-looking installation. While they're in there, we usually ask them to put in a path for us to run the cables - then our job takes less time. Finally, we come in and mount the TV and speakers, install the source equipment, and calibrate the whole thing.

Incidentally, we also have the electrician put in a surge-suppression outlet. That helps protect your investment from transient power spikes and other power issues.

People also ask about the heat and soot from the fireplace - does it reduce the life of the TV? The answer is, a little bit, but not by much. The important thing is to make sure you keep the screen clean - the soot will very slowly create a thin film on the screen. This can take many years, depending on how often you use your TV, so don't worry that it will make your TV go bad in weeks or months! The other point to note is that you should limit the amount of time you burn a fire while the TV is on. This is because the additional heat from the fire, combined with the heat generated by the TV electronics, can shorten the life of your TV. Again, it's not a huge impact, as most TVs are designed to operate at room temperatures of over 100 degrees. Since the heat from the fireplace dissipates as it rises, you're not likely to exceed the operating temperatures - you will simply be running the TV at the top of its designed range.

I hope this answers some of your questions about putting the TV over the fireplace. Feel free to drop us a line here or by email if you have questions or comments!

Thanks -
Rob

The Digital TV Revolution

2007-10-04T06:27:00.000-05:00

The other day, a friend of mine mentioned that someone had come by his house trying to sell satellite TV service. The pitch was that you will need Satellite TV in order to cope with the FCC-mandated demise of analog television in February 2009.

Have you heard about this yet? The FCC mandated a few years ago that broadcasters shut down all of their analog television broadcasting stations on February 16, 2009, and replace them with digital broadcasting stations. TVs that were only designed to receive analog TV can't receive the new digital stations. So this guy was walking around door-to-door telling people that they needed to get satellite service so they wouldn't have to buy a new TV. Was he right?

Actually, there was enough truth in it to sound good, but it wasn't complete.

First, it's true that analog TV is going away. The FCC-mandated date is February 16, 2009. But what does that mean?

Analog TV has been essentially unchanged since the 1950's. Even though new technology can offer much better picture clarity, better sound, surround sound, data broadcasting services (think weather, traffic, stock quotes), and a whole host of other services, analog TV can't take advantage of any of it. Plus, analog TV is notoriously inefficient when it comes to how much of the radio spectrum it requires.

Digital TV, on the other hand, is much more efficient - you can cram a lot more channels into the same or less space with digital than you can with analog. And, you can make it higher resolution (high-definition), add surround sound, CD-quality sound, multiple data services, multiple language options, and even put multiple high-definition programs in the same amount of radio spectrum as you needed for a single low-quality analog television signal.

Note that Digital TV (DTV) is not necessarily High Definition (HDTV). DTV can be standard definition (what you are used to seeing), or one of several levels of HDTV. All HDTV is DTV, but not all DTV is HDTV. Make sense?

So once the FCC cuts off the analog TV stations, what are you supposed to do? Throw out all your TVs and buy new ones? Well, even though we sell TVs, I don't actually recommend that - we'll help if you want us to, and we think there's real value for you to invest in a new TV set. But your old TVs will still work.

Here's how. First, here's where the satellite guy was right - satellite broadcasters (and cable companies) already output the correct signal type directly to your TV. That's part of the purpose of the set top box (STB) that you have in your living room. So all of these STBs already handle the conversion. And 80% of people in the US already have cable or satellite TV service. Oh, and the cable/satellite companies are not subject to the same regulations - satellite uses their own dedicated broadcast frequencies, and cable doesn't get broadcast over the air - they have their own dedicated wire that they completely control.

Second, and here's what the satellite guy didn't tell my friend, the government is offering a coupon program so you can buy what's called a digital off-air tuner, or a converter box. If you receive your TV via a regular antenna, this box will take the new digital TV signals and convert them to the older analog signal. You'll connect the new converter box to your TV, and then use the converter box to change your television stations. The government is offering up to two $40 coupons to as many households as request them. So if you have any TVs that get their signal from a regular antenna (and you want to keep the TV), you'll want to get these coupons. The converter boxes will probably sell for $40-100, and will be available in very early 2008. The coupons will be available starting in January.

If you want one or two of these coupons, check out this US government web site:
http://www.ntia.doc.gov/dtvcoupon/index.html http://www.ntia.doc.gov/dtvcoupon/index.html

Of course, you could always go to a new TV. Much clearer pictures, surround-sound, more channels, all of these are pretty compelling reasons to switch to DTV (especially the HDTV version). Either way, if you have questions, please either give us a call or post a response here on the blog. We really don't want you to make decisions like this based on partial or incorrect information!

Oh, my friend? He asked that satellite guy for a business card or brochure so he could consider the offer. The satellite guy either didn't have any or wouldn't give him any information. It was apparently a "now or never" deal. Sounds fishy to me... and to my friend, who gave the guy the boot!

There are a lot of people out there waiting to take advantage of any situation where there is likely to be some confusion. This guy had just enough real information to sound compelling, but didn't give the whole picture. Don't let them take advantage of you!

Thanks -
Rob

Which TV is right for me?

2007-09-12T13:54:00.000-05:00

Choices, choices and more choices. Let's face it; there are just a ridiculous number of televisions for sale out there. How can you possibly choose?

People often ask me what my favorite TV is, or similarly, what's my dream TV? This question is always followed by a long pause and a slow deep breath. It's not because I don't have an answer, matter of fact, I've got plenty, and there in lies the problem.

If Einstein has taught us anything, it's that everything is relative. My perfect TV may not be your perfect TV. The perfect television for your home may not even fit in mine and so on.

So how do we choose a new television?

Given that there really isn't an end all, be all, “greatest TV of all time” out there, we do the next best thing; learn and understand their major differences and how each will benefit you.

In fact, why don't we let them introduce themselves?

Hello! I'm an LCD TV
I'm a flat panel and I come in many, many different sizes and resolutions. You can find me in sizes ranging from 15” all the way up to about 57”. Sometimes you can find me as large as 65”, wow! You can put me on a table, or you can mount me on a wall! You can put me most anywhere because my screen is viewable from very wide angles.

Hi there! I'm a Plasma TV
I like the LCDs I'm a flat panel as well but I typically come in larger sizes than LCDs. Which also means I'm a bit heavier of the flat panel TVs. I have bright and vivid colors which are great for viewing movies but my screens have a slight tendency to show glare, so try to keep me away from a lot of windows.

Hello there! I'm a Rear Projection
...but most people refer to me as a DLP which stands for Digital Light Processing. DLP was invented by Texas Instruments and is just one way of making a rear projection. Others include CRT, LCD and LCoS.

I usually come in sizes from about 42” to 72”. As you can see, I'm a big television and I'm usually put on top of a table or stand, but sometimes I'm big enough to stand on the floor all by myself! I also offer the most screen for the dollar! If you like big, big screens but don't want to spend a whole lot of money, I'm the TV for you!

Howdy! I'm Front Projection!
There are two parts to me, a projector, and a screen. Projectors can be table or ceiling mounted. Screens can be ceiling mounted, wall mounted or even painted on the wall! The ceiling and wall mounted versions can be powered and lowered via remote control which is very cool! I can create HUGE screens for your home theater. If you love big screen movies but don't like going to the theater, check me out! I'm the best way to bring the enjoyment of cinema into your home!

Well there you have it! I'd like to thank all of the TVs for introducing themselves. As I mentioned before, each one of these choices have there specific benefits and no one has all the answers, but with a little help from a professional installer, like myself, you can be sure to make the right choice!

-Keith

Introduction

2007-09-11T21:27:00.000-05:00

Welcome to the Inspired Electronics Blog! Being that this is the inaugural post of Inspired Electronics, I feel that an introduction is in order.

A little about myself... My name is Keith and I work as an installer for a Home Electronics sales and installation company appropriately dubbed, Inspired Electronics, Inc. (Thus the name of the blog.)

In my past professional life I spent seven years working for a large hardware store, beginning in high school and then to put myself through college. One of those years, the last of which, I played the role of a department manager.

I learned an incredible amount about home improvement in those seven years, adding to an upbringing at the hands of two handymen, my Father and Grandfather, I've become very comfortable around the home improvement scene.

However, growing tired of the big-store retail life, I decided to jump head first into a profession which I truly have a passion for; Home Electronics!

Enter Inspired Electronics, Inc. The owner, Rob Schultz and I are building our dream company so to speak. We love Home Electronics, and quite frankly I can't imagine a more entertaining way to make a living.

So, we have our business... So why the blog you ask?

Well, the thing about having a passion for what you do is that you want to share it with everyone. I love to teach others about what I do for a living, and I love to learn from others. The Inspired Electronics Blog is, I think, a great way to do just that.

This board is for everyone. If you find yourself searching through the Sunday ads to see whats new in the electronics world... if you read so deep into the press releases that you hear about products far before they're on the shelves... if you stare at your Home Theater and wonder what changes you'll make next... if you just plain old love shiny, blinking, loud and cool new stuff...

This blog is for you. Welcome.

-Keith