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Thanks, and see you there!
Rob and Keith
Friday, December 31, 2010
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
How to buy a TV
Think back to the last time you bought a TV. How did you research and decide on what to buy?
If you went into a big box retail store, I'll bet you went to the "wall of TVs" where you were able to look at dozens or hundreds of different TVs side-by-side. You probably looked for the screen that looked the brightest or most colorful.
Or, you looked at the specs (especially if you bought the TV online), and chose based on what looked like they had the best numbers.
Or, you may have asked the sales associate for help.
All of these are good starting places, but they also all have some pitfalls that you need to be aware of so that you can make the best decision for your specific needs.
Narrowing the choices
Given so many choices in TVs these days, you really need to weed out the obvious non-starters. The first thing most people do is to settle on the size. I talked about screen size in my last blog entry. Once you've done that, you still have a formidable array of choices. So the next logical step is to decide on your budget. Now you probably have a dozen or two screens to choose from.
The next step most people want to take is to decide between plasma and LCD. That's a pretty good decision point, provided you choose for the right reasons. Look back at my blog on Plasma vs. LCD to get some tips on that.
So now you've cut out about half of the remaining choices, and you're ready to get down to business.
Big Box Stores - the Wall of TVs
First, let's talk about the "Wall of TVs". Every big-box store that sells TVs has one of these. Acres of video displays all trying to catch your eye and get you to take them home. But how do you decide which one is right for you?
At this point, most people compare the screens side by side (or as close as they can, given the layout of the store). They look for brightness, color saturation, black levels, and motion blur effects. Sometimes they'll consider how the TV sounds, if they're not going to hook it up to a sound system.
But remember, this is a big-box retailer we're talking about. These guys are masters at showing off the most profitable TVs, while leaving the less profitable ones hanging in the wings.
So the first thing you need to know is that these TVs all have the brightness and color saturation cranked up to the maximum. Just like a shiny car or piece of candy, the brighter and more colorful an object, the more it will catch your eye. (Some manufacturers even go so far as to engineer the TVs for maximum brightness and color saturation, just for this reason.) Also, remember that you're viewing these TVs under the store lights. Generally, they're metal halide lights, which are very different than your lights at home, causing the picture to look different.
Black levels are harder to disguise, but remember that when the brightness is cranked up, the blacks will naturally wash out a little bit.
And then there's motion blur and smoothness of the picture. Remember that these stores connect all of the TVs to a single source device. This means the signal is split and split again many times, and that process can degrade the picture quality. So the TVs that look better may very well have fewer splits, resulting in a better picture through no fault of the TV. Of course, some stores will go so far as to have completely different source material designed to make a TV look its best for the TVs they want to push.
Online comparisons - overwhelmed by numbers
If you're shopping or comparing on the Internet, you obviously can't look at the choices directly. So you compare based on specs, right? Of course, whenever I look at specs for TVs, I see as many as 50-75 different specs listed. And not every TV lists the same specs. And many of the specs mean something different between different TVs. Other specs make you think that more (or less) is better, but that's not necessarily true.
For example, you may look at the refresh rate for an LCD TV, listed at 60 Hz, 120 Hz, or 240 Hz, or even 480 Hz. I was comparing specs for a client the other day, and had to really dig to find the refresh rate for one of the TVs she was interested in. But is the higher number really better? There's too much information on this topic to go over in detail here, so I'll do a blog in the future about this whole refresh rate subject. So let me just say that once you get to 120 Hz, there's really no need to go any higher, because the TV can accurately display all source material correctly.
Oh, and Plasma manufacturers don't want to be left out of the Hz game, so they have their own spec for that, called "subfield drive" usually quoted as 600 Hz. but this has nothing to do with refresh rate, and really isn't useful in comparisons.
Contrast ratio is another comparison factor that has very little basis in reality. Every manufacturer measures it differently, and there's no way to compare them.
There are literally dozens of specs that can really overwhelm you when comparing TVs online.
Sales Associates - how do they know?
So let's say you've decided to ask the nearest sales associate for some help in comparing. One of the things I've noticed in a big-box store is that most of the time when I ask for help, they simply go to the display and look up the specs, which you probably did already.
Another thing I've noticed is that sometimes the associate is knowledgable, but sometimes they come from the household appliance department. Or they're really new.
Most big-box stores have programs to train the associates in the products they're selling. Usually, it's manufacturer-driven training. Some brands are more agressive than others, and will fill the trainees' heads with lots of (dubiously useful) information - I know, I've sat through a lot of these classes.
Finally, remember that the sales associate may be on a "spif" program. This means if he/she can get credit for selling a certain brand or model, they get a cash bonus, often from the manufacturer. So they're incentivized to recommend the models that give them the best spifs.
Is there any good news?
Wow, that's a lot of doom and gloom! I'm not usually a negative kind of person, but I see so many friends and clients getting bad advice on what to buy that I really want to make sure they understand how the information they're getting can be tainted.
So how do you cut through this morass? I won't pretend there's a perfect alternative.
I will say, though, that when I do find a truly knowledgable person in any field, I tend to hit them up again and again for advice on what to do.
Like most custom installers, we spend a lot of time not just comparing specs, but looking at different TVs in real-life situations. We also spend a lot of time in training such as ISF (Imaging Science Foundation) classes to understand exactly how video and film pictures are created and distributed, and how that impacts picture quality. And of course, we try to understand what things most people will actually notice on their TVs. After all, a spec is completely irrelevant if you can't see a difference on the screen!
So my advice is to find a custom installer that you can trust, and work with him or her to figure out what's best for you. Of course, we'd love to be that advisor, so call us at 847.471.4420 or visit our web page. But even if we're not, we know that most of the people in this industry are very knowledgable.
Thanks -
Rob
If you went into a big box retail store, I'll bet you went to the "wall of TVs" where you were able to look at dozens or hundreds of different TVs side-by-side. You probably looked for the screen that looked the brightest or most colorful.
Or, you looked at the specs (especially if you bought the TV online), and chose based on what looked like they had the best numbers.
Or, you may have asked the sales associate for help.
All of these are good starting places, but they also all have some pitfalls that you need to be aware of so that you can make the best decision for your specific needs.
Narrowing the choices
Given so many choices in TVs these days, you really need to weed out the obvious non-starters. The first thing most people do is to settle on the size. I talked about screen size in my last blog entry. Once you've done that, you still have a formidable array of choices. So the next logical step is to decide on your budget. Now you probably have a dozen or two screens to choose from.
The next step most people want to take is to decide between plasma and LCD. That's a pretty good decision point, provided you choose for the right reasons. Look back at my blog on Plasma vs. LCD to get some tips on that.
So now you've cut out about half of the remaining choices, and you're ready to get down to business.
Big Box Stores - the Wall of TVs
First, let's talk about the "Wall of TVs". Every big-box store that sells TVs has one of these. Acres of video displays all trying to catch your eye and get you to take them home. But how do you decide which one is right for you?
At this point, most people compare the screens side by side (or as close as they can, given the layout of the store). They look for brightness, color saturation, black levels, and motion blur effects. Sometimes they'll consider how the TV sounds, if they're not going to hook it up to a sound system.
But remember, this is a big-box retailer we're talking about. These guys are masters at showing off the most profitable TVs, while leaving the less profitable ones hanging in the wings.
So the first thing you need to know is that these TVs all have the brightness and color saturation cranked up to the maximum. Just like a shiny car or piece of candy, the brighter and more colorful an object, the more it will catch your eye. (Some manufacturers even go so far as to engineer the TVs for maximum brightness and color saturation, just for this reason.) Also, remember that you're viewing these TVs under the store lights. Generally, they're metal halide lights, which are very different than your lights at home, causing the picture to look different.
Black levels are harder to disguise, but remember that when the brightness is cranked up, the blacks will naturally wash out a little bit.
And then there's motion blur and smoothness of the picture. Remember that these stores connect all of the TVs to a single source device. This means the signal is split and split again many times, and that process can degrade the picture quality. So the TVs that look better may very well have fewer splits, resulting in a better picture through no fault of the TV. Of course, some stores will go so far as to have completely different source material designed to make a TV look its best for the TVs they want to push.
Online comparisons - overwhelmed by numbers
If you're shopping or comparing on the Internet, you obviously can't look at the choices directly. So you compare based on specs, right? Of course, whenever I look at specs for TVs, I see as many as 50-75 different specs listed. And not every TV lists the same specs. And many of the specs mean something different between different TVs. Other specs make you think that more (or less) is better, but that's not necessarily true.
For example, you may look at the refresh rate for an LCD TV, listed at 60 Hz, 120 Hz, or 240 Hz, or even 480 Hz. I was comparing specs for a client the other day, and had to really dig to find the refresh rate for one of the TVs she was interested in. But is the higher number really better? There's too much information on this topic to go over in detail here, so I'll do a blog in the future about this whole refresh rate subject. So let me just say that once you get to 120 Hz, there's really no need to go any higher, because the TV can accurately display all source material correctly.
Oh, and Plasma manufacturers don't want to be left out of the Hz game, so they have their own spec for that, called "subfield drive" usually quoted as 600 Hz. but this has nothing to do with refresh rate, and really isn't useful in comparisons.
Contrast ratio is another comparison factor that has very little basis in reality. Every manufacturer measures it differently, and there's no way to compare them.
There are literally dozens of specs that can really overwhelm you when comparing TVs online.
Sales Associates - how do they know?
So let's say you've decided to ask the nearest sales associate for some help in comparing. One of the things I've noticed in a big-box store is that most of the time when I ask for help, they simply go to the display and look up the specs, which you probably did already.
Another thing I've noticed is that sometimes the associate is knowledgable, but sometimes they come from the household appliance department. Or they're really new.
Most big-box stores have programs to train the associates in the products they're selling. Usually, it's manufacturer-driven training. Some brands are more agressive than others, and will fill the trainees' heads with lots of (dubiously useful) information - I know, I've sat through a lot of these classes.
Finally, remember that the sales associate may be on a "spif" program. This means if he/she can get credit for selling a certain brand or model, they get a cash bonus, often from the manufacturer. So they're incentivized to recommend the models that give them the best spifs.
Is there any good news?
Wow, that's a lot of doom and gloom! I'm not usually a negative kind of person, but I see so many friends and clients getting bad advice on what to buy that I really want to make sure they understand how the information they're getting can be tainted.
So how do you cut through this morass? I won't pretend there's a perfect alternative.
I will say, though, that when I do find a truly knowledgable person in any field, I tend to hit them up again and again for advice on what to do.
Like most custom installers, we spend a lot of time not just comparing specs, but looking at different TVs in real-life situations. We also spend a lot of time in training such as ISF (Imaging Science Foundation) classes to understand exactly how video and film pictures are created and distributed, and how that impacts picture quality. And of course, we try to understand what things most people will actually notice on their TVs. After all, a spec is completely irrelevant if you can't see a difference on the screen!
So my advice is to find a custom installer that you can trust, and work with him or her to figure out what's best for you. Of course, we'd love to be that advisor, so call us at 847.471.4420 or visit our web page. But even if we're not, we know that most of the people in this industry are very knowledgable.
Thanks -
Rob
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Technology keeps changing, so I need to keep revisiting old questions! The last time I addressed screen size recommendations was in 2007. Do you think the answer has changed?
Well, actually, I think the basic sizing recommendations still hold. But there are a few things that have changed, given the changes in technology and the way people use their TVs these days.
Before we get to the specific recommendations, there are some things we try to take into consideration when consulting with our clients.
The first thing to consider is your budget. Larger screens cost more, which seems only normal. But of course, larger screens are much less expensive today than a couple of years ago. For example, in 2006 a 58” 720p plasma display ran about $4,800. Today, you can get a top-of-the-line 65” 1080p plasma from Panasonic for about the same price. Or, you could get an ultra-slim 55” LCD Samsung display, again at 1080p, with a 240 Hz refresh rate, Internet connectivity, LED backlighting, and a host of other features for even a bit less. Smaller screens have come down even more.
So if your budget allows for the larger screen, you may want to opt for that. But you may also decide that some of the other features are more important, and you can live with a slightly smaller screen.
You also need to balance the screen with the rest of the furnishings, and it needs to physically fit in the space - if you're mounting a flat-panel over the fireplace, you may have limitations because of the ceiling, mantle, fireplace opening, and other built-in elements of the room.
On the other hand, you may want to be totally immersed in the video. In that case, a larger screen size will fill in your peripheral vision with more movie, sports, or video game action, making you part of the action. Of course, if you feel overwhelmed by watching larger-than-life TV, a smaller screen will let you feel "outside looking in."
A couple of years ago, I would have recommended a rear-projection TV if you want a big screen on a limited budget. Today, the prices of flat panels, the limitations of rear-projection TVs, combined with their very limited availability make those units a much poorer choice.
Then there are the many budget-minded flat panel TVs that cost less money than the name brands. I'd caution, though, against getting caught up in the "cheap panel TV" sales hype that you'll see this holiday season. You really do get what you pay for, and you don't want to be stuck with a picture that's even worse than your old TV!
One more factor to consider is power consumption. Larger screens simply use more power, and plasmas usually consume more power than LCDs (especially those with LED backlighting). While calibration can help, you still probably want to take that into consideration.
So what are my recommendations for screen sizes? Usually you want your seating distance to be 1 ½ to 2 times the diagonal size of the screen for a front projection system, and 2 to 2 ½ times the diagonal screen size for a panel TV. Opt for a larger screen size for a more immersive experience, or a smaller screen size if you want more features at the same price point or you don’t want to be overwhelmed by the TV.
As always, if you're still confused about all of the options out there, give us a call, and we'll be glad to give you a free consultation!
Thanks -
Rob
Well, actually, I think the basic sizing recommendations still hold. But there are a few things that have changed, given the changes in technology and the way people use their TVs these days.
Before we get to the specific recommendations, there are some things we try to take into consideration when consulting with our clients.
The first thing to consider is your budget. Larger screens cost more, which seems only normal. But of course, larger screens are much less expensive today than a couple of years ago. For example, in 2006 a 58” 720p plasma display ran about $4,800. Today, you can get a top-of-the-line 65” 1080p plasma from Panasonic for about the same price. Or, you could get an ultra-slim 55” LCD Samsung display, again at 1080p, with a 240 Hz refresh rate, Internet connectivity, LED backlighting, and a host of other features for even a bit less. Smaller screens have come down even more.
So if your budget allows for the larger screen, you may want to opt for that. But you may also decide that some of the other features are more important, and you can live with a slightly smaller screen.
You also need to balance the screen with the rest of the furnishings, and it needs to physically fit in the space - if you're mounting a flat-panel over the fireplace, you may have limitations because of the ceiling, mantle, fireplace opening, and other built-in elements of the room.
On the other hand, you may want to be totally immersed in the video. In that case, a larger screen size will fill in your peripheral vision with more movie, sports, or video game action, making you part of the action. Of course, if you feel overwhelmed by watching larger-than-life TV, a smaller screen will let you feel "outside looking in."
A couple of years ago, I would have recommended a rear-projection TV if you want a big screen on a limited budget. Today, the prices of flat panels, the limitations of rear-projection TVs, combined with their very limited availability make those units a much poorer choice.
Then there are the many budget-minded flat panel TVs that cost less money than the name brands. I'd caution, though, against getting caught up in the "cheap panel TV" sales hype that you'll see this holiday season. You really do get what you pay for, and you don't want to be stuck with a picture that's even worse than your old TV!
One more factor to consider is power consumption. Larger screens simply use more power, and plasmas usually consume more power than LCDs (especially those with LED backlighting). While calibration can help, you still probably want to take that into consideration.
So what are my recommendations for screen sizes? Usually you want your seating distance to be 1 ½ to 2 times the diagonal size of the screen for a front projection system, and 2 to 2 ½ times the diagonal screen size for a panel TV. Opt for a larger screen size for a more immersive experience, or a smaller screen size if you want more features at the same price point or you don’t want to be overwhelmed by the TV.
As always, if you're still confused about all of the options out there, give us a call, and we'll be glad to give you a free consultation!
Thanks -
Rob
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Living Room Theater for Contractors
Probably the most common instance of a home theater today is the living room or family room theater. This is most often a multi-use room which won’t always have the audio and video systems in use. The room will be used to watch TV, movies, sports, video games, and more. And often this system will be the basis of a distributed audio system to get music to the rest of the house or the backyard. So the system has to be easy to use, while at the same time providing as much flexibility as the media room.
There are many factors to consider with a living room theater, such as acoustics, ambient light, sources, audio distribution, seating, and interior design. The system has to look good both when it’s on and when it’s off!
Room acoustics
Living rooms are rarely enclosed regular spaces. Hallways, dining rooms, kitchens, extra entertaining areas, and extra high ceilings all pose significant challenges to the acoustics of the room. And because the room is not primarily an A/V room but rather an entertaining space, the furnishings often do not lend themselves well to the really good sound absorption, reflection, and dispersion that’s necessary for the best sound. The A/V team and the interior designer need to work together to ensure that both the design goals and the A/V goals are met.
Sources and screen
As with the media room, clients will want their living room entertainment system to perform every possible function, from movies to video games. There will be more of an emphasis on TV watching than in the media room, although both types of rooms will require a good TV experience.
A living room is much more likely to employ an LCD or Plasma panel than a projector. This means the screen size will be smaller, and you’ll need to consider whether the screen needs to be camouflaged or hidden when not in use.
The equipment will need to fit aesthetically into the room. You may want to locate the equipment in a closet that can be closed off, or in furniture such as a low-boy or other cabinet. Make sure there’s adequate ventilation, though. If you completely block in the equipment, it will overheat and burn out, or worse, burn up! Remember, if this system is the foundation for distributed audio, there may be more equipment than you expect in the cabinet.
And finally, consider the placement of the screen. Many people will want the TV over the fireplace (if there is one) because it creates a single focal point for the room. Interior designers often dislike this option because it takes away from the elegance of the room. Either way, it’s best to provide several options, because the homeowner will likely change their mind later. In particular, make sure there’s power and a cable chase above the fireplace and in the most likely alternate locations. This will enable the A/V team to respond quickly and efficiently to the homeowner’s requests to move the TV, and will earn high marks for forward thinking for the builder.
Ambient Light
Most living rooms have lots of light, by design. This is a good thing when entertaining in the day, but can wreak havoc on watching TV or a ball game in the afternoon. The choice of video display is impacted by the any light in the space and relative locations of the screen and the windows. Powered curtains or shades that can be remotely controlled can be a way to automatically remove light from the room when needed.
Disguising the screen
Many homeowners and interior designers don’t want the screen to be visible when it’s not in use. There are many options for this, from picture frames that go around the TV bezel, to mirrors that disappear when the display is on, to covers that can essentially replace the screen with a work of art that slides out of the way when the display is in use.
Often, you’ll need to build an inset for the TV so that it doesn’t look unsightly from the side. Again, ventilation is important – you can’t build a frame tight to the TV, unless you also put in fans to keep the TV cool.
Seating
Theater chairs are generally banned from the living room, so plan for sofas and chairs. Remember that the room also has to act as a conversation pit, so plan furniture locations accordingly. And consider sight lines from other rooms, too. For example, the homeowner may want to see the TV from the kitchen or breakfast nook.
Other thoughts
In addition to the above considerations, note that TV mounted above a fireplace is higher than normal. In order to make sure the viewers are comfortable, you’ll need to be sure the seats are far enough away that there’s no need to crane necks to see the screen. A longer viewing distance may also necessitate a larger TV.
Tilting the TV can help a little, but the image is usually higher than most people like. The tilt actually solves the glare problem better than it solves the height issue.
The living room (or den or family room) has some special considerations compared to a media room or a cinema room. In particular, the living room has to have excellent design even when the A/V equipment is not in use. And finally, you need to allow the client to rearrange the room and to expand the system. Doing so will earn you high marks for forward thinking, while failing to do so will have clients grumbling down the line.
Where to get help
For any electronic system, it’s important to bring in a CE pro (custom electronics professional). The CE pro will be able to help design the electronics, in conjunction with the architect, builder, and interior designer, in order to deliver the perfect experience for the client. That same CE pro will be able to recommend and provide the right mix of equipment and control systems for the client, staying within the client’s budget, and finally install and calibrate the equipment to ensure the best experience possible.
If you’re looking for a CE pro that you can trust to work with you and deliver the best results for your clients, call the experts at Inspired Electronics, Inc. We specialize in residential and commercial audio, video, and control systems. Call Keith Rose at 847.471.420 or email at keith@inspired-electronics.com.
For more information about Inspired Electronics, Inc., visit our website at http://www.inspired-electronics.com/.
There are many factors to consider with a living room theater, such as acoustics, ambient light, sources, audio distribution, seating, and interior design. The system has to look good both when it’s on and when it’s off!
Room acoustics
Living rooms are rarely enclosed regular spaces. Hallways, dining rooms, kitchens, extra entertaining areas, and extra high ceilings all pose significant challenges to the acoustics of the room. And because the room is not primarily an A/V room but rather an entertaining space, the furnishings often do not lend themselves well to the really good sound absorption, reflection, and dispersion that’s necessary for the best sound. The A/V team and the interior designer need to work together to ensure that both the design goals and the A/V goals are met.
Sources and screen
As with the media room, clients will want their living room entertainment system to perform every possible function, from movies to video games. There will be more of an emphasis on TV watching than in the media room, although both types of rooms will require a good TV experience.
A living room is much more likely to employ an LCD or Plasma panel than a projector. This means the screen size will be smaller, and you’ll need to consider whether the screen needs to be camouflaged or hidden when not in use.
The equipment will need to fit aesthetically into the room. You may want to locate the equipment in a closet that can be closed off, or in furniture such as a low-boy or other cabinet. Make sure there’s adequate ventilation, though. If you completely block in the equipment, it will overheat and burn out, or worse, burn up! Remember, if this system is the foundation for distributed audio, there may be more equipment than you expect in the cabinet.
And finally, consider the placement of the screen. Many people will want the TV over the fireplace (if there is one) because it creates a single focal point for the room. Interior designers often dislike this option because it takes away from the elegance of the room. Either way, it’s best to provide several options, because the homeowner will likely change their mind later. In particular, make sure there’s power and a cable chase above the fireplace and in the most likely alternate locations. This will enable the A/V team to respond quickly and efficiently to the homeowner’s requests to move the TV, and will earn high marks for forward thinking for the builder.
Ambient Light
Most living rooms have lots of light, by design. This is a good thing when entertaining in the day, but can wreak havoc on watching TV or a ball game in the afternoon. The choice of video display is impacted by the any light in the space and relative locations of the screen and the windows. Powered curtains or shades that can be remotely controlled can be a way to automatically remove light from the room when needed.
Disguising the screen
Many homeowners and interior designers don’t want the screen to be visible when it’s not in use. There are many options for this, from picture frames that go around the TV bezel, to mirrors that disappear when the display is on, to covers that can essentially replace the screen with a work of art that slides out of the way when the display is in use.
Often, you’ll need to build an inset for the TV so that it doesn’t look unsightly from the side. Again, ventilation is important – you can’t build a frame tight to the TV, unless you also put in fans to keep the TV cool.
Seating
Theater chairs are generally banned from the living room, so plan for sofas and chairs. Remember that the room also has to act as a conversation pit, so plan furniture locations accordingly. And consider sight lines from other rooms, too. For example, the homeowner may want to see the TV from the kitchen or breakfast nook.
Other thoughts
In addition to the above considerations, note that TV mounted above a fireplace is higher than normal. In order to make sure the viewers are comfortable, you’ll need to be sure the seats are far enough away that there’s no need to crane necks to see the screen. A longer viewing distance may also necessitate a larger TV.
Tilting the TV can help a little, but the image is usually higher than most people like. The tilt actually solves the glare problem better than it solves the height issue.
The living room (or den or family room) has some special considerations compared to a media room or a cinema room. In particular, the living room has to have excellent design even when the A/V equipment is not in use. And finally, you need to allow the client to rearrange the room and to expand the system. Doing so will earn you high marks for forward thinking, while failing to do so will have clients grumbling down the line.
Where to get help
For any electronic system, it’s important to bring in a CE pro (custom electronics professional). The CE pro will be able to help design the electronics, in conjunction with the architect, builder, and interior designer, in order to deliver the perfect experience for the client. That same CE pro will be able to recommend and provide the right mix of equipment and control systems for the client, staying within the client’s budget, and finally install and calibrate the equipment to ensure the best experience possible.
If you’re looking for a CE pro that you can trust to work with you and deliver the best results for your clients, call the experts at Inspired Electronics, Inc. We specialize in residential and commercial audio, video, and control systems. Call Keith Rose at 847.471.420 or email at keith@inspired-electronics.com.
For more information about Inspired Electronics, Inc., visit our website at http://www.inspired-electronics.com/.
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Game and Media Rooms for Contractors
In the first article in this series, we talked about the different types of home theaters that you might be asked to put into a home. In the second, we focused on the dedicated cinema room.
This time, we’ll focus on a common basement remodeling project – the media room or game room. This room differs from the home cinema in that it’s usually part of a larger entertaining space, which may include a bar, a pool table, conversation areas, or other entertaining spaces.
The media room is often separated from the rest of the space by a half-wall or a counter where a row of stools provides additional seating. There may also be more viewing screens such as flat panel TVs around the bar or in other segments. And your client will want to do more than watch movies on the main screen. Our clients want to watch sports, TV, and even video games on the big screen. And sometimes they even want a stage for their kids to perform on.
There are differences in acoustics, sources, seating, ambient light, and video distribution among other things.
Room acoustics
The first thing we notice with media rooms is that they’re missing a wall (sometimes two!). The back wall is often a half-wall, and a side wall can be missing or partially missing. This makes the theater room part of the rest of the space, including the other occupants in the movie, sports show, or video game if they choose. It also allows sound to move between the spaces, so the movie is heard at the bar, and the pool table is heard in the theater. The base level of ambient sound (the “Noise Criteria”) can be much higher when there’s a party, which means the volume needs to be higher in order to hear the softer passages. Of course, that volume invades the rest of the space during the louder scenes. This is probably exactly what the client wants when they’re watching a baseball or football game, but may not be ideal in a movie. It also means the sound bounces around the room differently, which can impact the surround-sound imaging even when there’s nobody else sharing the space.
Sources
When a client asks for a media room, they usually are thinking the space will serve multiple purposes. They’ll want to watch movies (Blu-Ray, Internet downloads, or Video-on-demand), sports (over-the-air or cable TV), regular TV programming, home movies, and even video games (Wii, Xbox, or Playstation). You need to consider where these sources will live, and especially in the case of the Wii, how the users will interact with the screen. There has to be enough room to play the active games like Wii Sports without knocking into the screen or the seating. And finally, people standing in front of the front row are likely to interfere with the projector image unless the room is very carefully designed and configured.
Video and Audio Distribution
Since the clients want the rest of the space to interact with the theater, you many need to consider multiple screens to ensure that everyone has good sightlines. The guest sitting at the bar will want to know the score without having to walk around the corner to the theater room. And of course you’ll want to carefully plan speaker locations so that all guests can hear the game without annoying echoes or delays, and without it being too loud for conversation. Speaker types and locations are important here, as is proper amplification.
Note that the client may also want to put something different on different screens. For example, the main screen may be showing the home team football game, while the bar TV may be showing a different game. A TV in a conversation area may show a movie for the kids, while the outdoor TVs may be showing a baseball game! For each different item that’s showing, you need a source, and you need a video switcher capable of routing that many signals to that many displays. And if the displays aren’t all capable of showing the same resolution (some may be 1080p, while others are 720p), you need to be able to scale the signal appropriately. And of course you need a way to control all of this!
Ambient Light
As the space is also an entertaining space, you’ll need to make sure there is plenty of natural light in the room. This means a normal low-lumen projector, designed for use in near complete darkness, won’t be able to project an image bright enough to compensate. You’ll need a brighter projector and possibly a higher-gain screen to make up for the additional light but still provide an excellent picture. And night-time entertaining will have a different level of light than day-time entertaining, which means the projector may need multiple calibration levels.
Seating
Many times, clients will opt for sofas instead of theater chairs in a media room – they’re considered more friendly in this type of space. And tiered seating may be out of the question, although bar stools behind a counter or half-wall may give the client backup seating space. But these seats aren’t usually within the surround-sound-stage, which means the audio portion of the event may not be very good from those seats unless the speaker locations are designed correctly.
Other thoughts
In many ways, a media room is even more complex than a cinema room. While the cinema room has to do audio and video very well, the media room has to be able to switch personalities quickly and easily.
Where to get help
For any electronic system, it’s important to bring in a CE pro (custom electronics professional). The CE pro will be able to help design the electronics, in conjunction with the architect, builder, and interior designer, in order to deliver the perfect experience for the client. That same CE pro will be able to recommend and provide the right mix of equipment and control systems for the client, staying within the client’s budget, and finally install and calibrate the equipment to ensure the best experience possible.
If you’re looking for a CE pro that you can trust to work with you and deliver the best results for your clients, call the experts at Inspired Electronics, Inc. We specialize in residential and commercial audio, video, and control systems. Call Keith Rose at 847.471.420 or email at keith@inspired-electronics.com.
For more information about Inspired Electronics, Inc., visit our website at http://www.inspired-electronics.com.
This time, we’ll focus on a common basement remodeling project – the media room or game room. This room differs from the home cinema in that it’s usually part of a larger entertaining space, which may include a bar, a pool table, conversation areas, or other entertaining spaces.
The media room is often separated from the rest of the space by a half-wall or a counter where a row of stools provides additional seating. There may also be more viewing screens such as flat panel TVs around the bar or in other segments. And your client will want to do more than watch movies on the main screen. Our clients want to watch sports, TV, and even video games on the big screen. And sometimes they even want a stage for their kids to perform on.
There are differences in acoustics, sources, seating, ambient light, and video distribution among other things.
Room acoustics
The first thing we notice with media rooms is that they’re missing a wall (sometimes two!). The back wall is often a half-wall, and a side wall can be missing or partially missing. This makes the theater room part of the rest of the space, including the other occupants in the movie, sports show, or video game if they choose. It also allows sound to move between the spaces, so the movie is heard at the bar, and the pool table is heard in the theater. The base level of ambient sound (the “Noise Criteria”) can be much higher when there’s a party, which means the volume needs to be higher in order to hear the softer passages. Of course, that volume invades the rest of the space during the louder scenes. This is probably exactly what the client wants when they’re watching a baseball or football game, but may not be ideal in a movie. It also means the sound bounces around the room differently, which can impact the surround-sound imaging even when there’s nobody else sharing the space.
Sources
When a client asks for a media room, they usually are thinking the space will serve multiple purposes. They’ll want to watch movies (Blu-Ray, Internet downloads, or Video-on-demand), sports (over-the-air or cable TV), regular TV programming, home movies, and even video games (Wii, Xbox, or Playstation). You need to consider where these sources will live, and especially in the case of the Wii, how the users will interact with the screen. There has to be enough room to play the active games like Wii Sports without knocking into the screen or the seating. And finally, people standing in front of the front row are likely to interfere with the projector image unless the room is very carefully designed and configured.
Video and Audio Distribution
Since the clients want the rest of the space to interact with the theater, you many need to consider multiple screens to ensure that everyone has good sightlines. The guest sitting at the bar will want to know the score without having to walk around the corner to the theater room. And of course you’ll want to carefully plan speaker locations so that all guests can hear the game without annoying echoes or delays, and without it being too loud for conversation. Speaker types and locations are important here, as is proper amplification.
Note that the client may also want to put something different on different screens. For example, the main screen may be showing the home team football game, while the bar TV may be showing a different game. A TV in a conversation area may show a movie for the kids, while the outdoor TVs may be showing a baseball game! For each different item that’s showing, you need a source, and you need a video switcher capable of routing that many signals to that many displays. And if the displays aren’t all capable of showing the same resolution (some may be 1080p, while others are 720p), you need to be able to scale the signal appropriately. And of course you need a way to control all of this!
Ambient Light
As the space is also an entertaining space, you’ll need to make sure there is plenty of natural light in the room. This means a normal low-lumen projector, designed for use in near complete darkness, won’t be able to project an image bright enough to compensate. You’ll need a brighter projector and possibly a higher-gain screen to make up for the additional light but still provide an excellent picture. And night-time entertaining will have a different level of light than day-time entertaining, which means the projector may need multiple calibration levels.
Seating
Many times, clients will opt for sofas instead of theater chairs in a media room – they’re considered more friendly in this type of space. And tiered seating may be out of the question, although bar stools behind a counter or half-wall may give the client backup seating space. But these seats aren’t usually within the surround-sound-stage, which means the audio portion of the event may not be very good from those seats unless the speaker locations are designed correctly.
Other thoughts
In many ways, a media room is even more complex than a cinema room. While the cinema room has to do audio and video very well, the media room has to be able to switch personalities quickly and easily.
Where to get help
For any electronic system, it’s important to bring in a CE pro (custom electronics professional). The CE pro will be able to help design the electronics, in conjunction with the architect, builder, and interior designer, in order to deliver the perfect experience for the client. That same CE pro will be able to recommend and provide the right mix of equipment and control systems for the client, staying within the client’s budget, and finally install and calibrate the equipment to ensure the best experience possible.
If you’re looking for a CE pro that you can trust to work with you and deliver the best results for your clients, call the experts at Inspired Electronics, Inc. We specialize in residential and commercial audio, video, and control systems. Call Keith Rose at 847.471.420 or email at keith@inspired-electronics.com.
For more information about Inspired Electronics, Inc., visit our website at http://www.inspired-electronics.com.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Home Cinema for Contractors
Your client just told you they want a home theater as part of their remodeling or building project. You think, “Cool, this is really going to make this project a great living experience for the client!”
Now you need to make sure you design and build the theater that your clients are hoping for. And you probably don’t have a degree in acoustic design. This article will give you some basic rules-of-thumb to get you going. For more detailed design help, please contact Inspired Electronics, Inc. at info@inspired-electronics.com, www.inspired-electronics.com, or 847.471.4420.
In order to be sure you create the right room, you first need to delve a little bit more into what the client really wants. Take a look at our previous article to learn about the different options, so you can narrow down what your client is really interested in.
Now, let’s assume for this article that the client really wants that holy grail of home entertainment experiences, a dedicated home cinema. Here are a few things you should consider when designing and building that room.
Room acoustics
Everyone knows that the video display is a critical part of a cinema experience. But have you ever really considered the audio? Room acoustics play a huge part in making that home cinema room sound as good as it looks, delivering a knock-your-socks-off experience.
The room should be rectangular in shape, with the screen on the short wall. And all four walls and ceiling should be there – if you have a half-wall opening onto another room, the acoustics change significantly. There needs to be a door, and windows are generally not desirable. Any sort of ell or nook will also change the acoustics.
Walls should be flat, although columns and a proscenium are fine.
In general, you want the room furnishings to absorb or disperse some of the sound energy in the room, without damping the room too much. If the room is too absorptive, it will sound “dead”, and if it’s too reflective, it will sound “bright” or “echo-y”. Curtains across or beside the screen are fine (but shouldn’t cover the speakers), and furniture will also be sound absorptive. Carpet is good for the same reason. But don’t dampen the room too much – you can always add acoustical treatments later if necessary.
Note that bass frequencies behave differently than treble frequencies. They are much harder to control after construction, so you need to take them into consideration during the design phase. You may consider using a dedicated software package to predict how the bass frequencies are going to interact with the room. In some cases, you may need to provide for a way to “trap” the bass, or plan for multiple subwoofers to even out the response.
Room isolation
Your client probably wants sound isolation from the rest of the home. This serves two purposes. First, it allows someone to watch a movie at full volume without disturbing others in the home. Second, it removes outside noise such as the HVAC, street noise, or other outside noises that interfere with low-volume listening.
In order to properly isolate a room, you need to build a “room-within-a-room”. This means double stud walls, with a sound-dampening material woven between the walls. Double drywall does little to prevent the most annoying sound frequencies from traveling to another room unless a sound-dampening barrier is also used.
The Screen and Speakers
Most clients will want the screen to be as big as possible. You need to be sure they can see the bottom of the screen from the back row. You also need to be sure there’s room for the speakers. Speakers can be hidden behind an acoustically transparent screen if needed. Your client may also want an ultra-wide screen (anamorphic widescreen). This allows the client to watch movies in the very wide 2.35:1 aspect ratio format. You will want a masking screen and an anamorphic lens at the projector for this option.
In a dedicated cinema room, the client will expect the Left/Center/Right front speakers, plus 4 or 6 surround/rear speakers, plus 2 or even 4 subwoofers. This setup has the ability to deliver the best possible sound to every seat in the room.
Other room factors
Be sure you can fit as many seats as the client wants. If there are two or more rows of seating, you’ll need to have clear sight lines from the back rows.
The projector will most likely be mounted toward the back of the room, near the ceiling. Too low, and heads will be in the way – too high, and the projector may “wash” the ceiling too much. And it needs to be centered with the projector, of course. Some projectors have vertical and horizontal shift mechanisms, but you may not want to rely on that.
The audio and video equipment (amplifiers, Blu-Ray player, control systems, etc.) all need to live somewhere. Ideally, they will be accessible from the room without taking up room space, which usually means putting a pull-out rack in a closet or cubby. Make sure there is access to the back of the rack for upgrades, repairs, or reconfigurations. And be sure there is sufficient ventilation, as amplifiers get hot, while Blu-Ray players can be sensitive to heat!
Where to get help
For any electronic system, it’s important to bring in a CE pro (custom electronics professional). The CE pro will be able to help design the electronics, in conjunction with the architect, builder, and interior designer, in order to deliver the perfect experience for the client. That same CE pro will be able to recommend and provide the right mix of equipment and control systems for the client, staying within the client’s budget, and finally install and calibrate the equipment to ensure the best experience possible.
If you’re looking for a CE pro that you can trust to work with you and deliver the best results for your clients, call the experts at Inspired Electronics, Inc. We specialize in residential and commercial audio, video, and control systems. Call Keith Rose at 847.471.420 or email at keith@inspired-electronics.com.
For more information about Inspired Electronics, Inc., visit our website at http://www.inspired-electronics.com.
Now you need to make sure you design and build the theater that your clients are hoping for. And you probably don’t have a degree in acoustic design. This article will give you some basic rules-of-thumb to get you going. For more detailed design help, please contact Inspired Electronics, Inc. at info@inspired-electronics.com, www.inspired-electronics.com, or 847.471.4420.
In order to be sure you create the right room, you first need to delve a little bit more into what the client really wants. Take a look at our previous article to learn about the different options, so you can narrow down what your client is really interested in.
Now, let’s assume for this article that the client really wants that holy grail of home entertainment experiences, a dedicated home cinema. Here are a few things you should consider when designing and building that room.
Room acoustics
Everyone knows that the video display is a critical part of a cinema experience. But have you ever really considered the audio? Room acoustics play a huge part in making that home cinema room sound as good as it looks, delivering a knock-your-socks-off experience.
The room should be rectangular in shape, with the screen on the short wall. And all four walls and ceiling should be there – if you have a half-wall opening onto another room, the acoustics change significantly. There needs to be a door, and windows are generally not desirable. Any sort of ell or nook will also change the acoustics.
Walls should be flat, although columns and a proscenium are fine.
In general, you want the room furnishings to absorb or disperse some of the sound energy in the room, without damping the room too much. If the room is too absorptive, it will sound “dead”, and if it’s too reflective, it will sound “bright” or “echo-y”. Curtains across or beside the screen are fine (but shouldn’t cover the speakers), and furniture will also be sound absorptive. Carpet is good for the same reason. But don’t dampen the room too much – you can always add acoustical treatments later if necessary.
Note that bass frequencies behave differently than treble frequencies. They are much harder to control after construction, so you need to take them into consideration during the design phase. You may consider using a dedicated software package to predict how the bass frequencies are going to interact with the room. In some cases, you may need to provide for a way to “trap” the bass, or plan for multiple subwoofers to even out the response.
Room isolation
Your client probably wants sound isolation from the rest of the home. This serves two purposes. First, it allows someone to watch a movie at full volume without disturbing others in the home. Second, it removes outside noise such as the HVAC, street noise, or other outside noises that interfere with low-volume listening.
In order to properly isolate a room, you need to build a “room-within-a-room”. This means double stud walls, with a sound-dampening material woven between the walls. Double drywall does little to prevent the most annoying sound frequencies from traveling to another room unless a sound-dampening barrier is also used.
The Screen and Speakers
Most clients will want the screen to be as big as possible. You need to be sure they can see the bottom of the screen from the back row. You also need to be sure there’s room for the speakers. Speakers can be hidden behind an acoustically transparent screen if needed. Your client may also want an ultra-wide screen (anamorphic widescreen). This allows the client to watch movies in the very wide 2.35:1 aspect ratio format. You will want a masking screen and an anamorphic lens at the projector for this option.
In a dedicated cinema room, the client will expect the Left/Center/Right front speakers, plus 4 or 6 surround/rear speakers, plus 2 or even 4 subwoofers. This setup has the ability to deliver the best possible sound to every seat in the room.
Other room factors
Be sure you can fit as many seats as the client wants. If there are two or more rows of seating, you’ll need to have clear sight lines from the back rows.
The projector will most likely be mounted toward the back of the room, near the ceiling. Too low, and heads will be in the way – too high, and the projector may “wash” the ceiling too much. And it needs to be centered with the projector, of course. Some projectors have vertical and horizontal shift mechanisms, but you may not want to rely on that.
The audio and video equipment (amplifiers, Blu-Ray player, control systems, etc.) all need to live somewhere. Ideally, they will be accessible from the room without taking up room space, which usually means putting a pull-out rack in a closet or cubby. Make sure there is access to the back of the rack for upgrades, repairs, or reconfigurations. And be sure there is sufficient ventilation, as amplifiers get hot, while Blu-Ray players can be sensitive to heat!
Where to get help
For any electronic system, it’s important to bring in a CE pro (custom electronics professional). The CE pro will be able to help design the electronics, in conjunction with the architect, builder, and interior designer, in order to deliver the perfect experience for the client. That same CE pro will be able to recommend and provide the right mix of equipment and control systems for the client, staying within the client’s budget, and finally install and calibrate the equipment to ensure the best experience possible.
If you’re looking for a CE pro that you can trust to work with you and deliver the best results for your clients, call the experts at Inspired Electronics, Inc. We specialize in residential and commercial audio, video, and control systems. Call Keith Rose at 847.471.420 or email at keith@inspired-electronics.com.
For more information about Inspired Electronics, Inc., visit our website at http://www.inspired-electronics.com.
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Home Theater: Contractor Basics
How many times have you heard a client say, “I want a home theater?” Over the last few years, this area has become common in both remodeling projects and initial home designs.
But what exactly is home theater?
Simply defined, a home theater is an audio and video system where the speakers are not part of the video display, but rather are separate components. That’s a lot of latitude, since it can encompass anything from a small TV hooked up to a stereo all the way up to a dedicated room with seating for 40 with a very large projection system, multiple surround-speakers, racks of equipment, and a large touch panel control system.
So the first thing you need to do is learn exactly what a client wants when they say “home theater." Here are a few basic categories to help get you started.
Small Bedroom or Living Room System with Stereo
The simplest home theater has a small (by today’s standards!) flat panel TV mounted either on a stand or on the wall (over a fireplace is common), connected to a small stereo receiver and a pair of wall-mounted (in-wall or on-wall) or free-standing speakers. “Small” typically means under 40” diagonal.
If your client wants this, make sure you know if the TV will be wall- or stand-mounted (provide power and a cable chase if wall-mounted), and whether the speakers will be wall-mounted or free standing (if in-wall or on-wall, you’ll need to pre-wire with good-quality in-wall speaker wire – typically 16/2).
The client will probably also need a place to put the DVD or Blu-Ray player, the cable or satellite receiver, and the stereo receiver. A properly-sized nook or an equipment stand are the best options for this.
The wiring chase to the TV location can have an HDMI cable, Component Video cables, or other video cables pulled as needed. We like 2” flexible raceways to give enough room for the cable heads to get through.
Living room surround-sound system
The next level up typically incorporates a larger video display and surround-sound instead of stereo speakers. You still have to worry about power for the TV if it’s wall-mounted and pre-wiring for five speakers plus the subwoofer.
You’ll still need a place for the equipment to reside, so make sure to ask the client whether they want a built-in nook or if they’ll be putting in some furniture. Don’t forget to account for space for a gaming system and a way to dissipate heat! You need a way to get video up to the TV, so that cable chase is still important.
A new component you need to consider is the subwoofer. Surround-sound speakers generally require a separate subwoofer to handle the low frequencies. Don’t put the subwoofer in a nook, because the enclosure will further focus and amplify the bass frequencies. If the client wants to hide the sub, there are in-wall subwoofers available. These need to be preplanned, since there are enclosures that need to be built into the wall.
Media Rooms
Media rooms are one of the most common forms of home theater that people think of when building an addition or finishing a basement.
These frequently have a partially separated room for the video display and surround-sound, which joins into another entertaining space. There are a couple of major “gotcha’s” with media rooms.
First, you’re usually missing a wall. This has a big impact on the audio design, and means the client probably can’t watch one thing in the theater part while watching or listening to something else in the main entertaining area.
Second, some clients will want projectors, while others will want a very large flat panel display. It’s important to ferret this out at the beginning, since it impacts power needs and video cabling.
Third, many clients will want multiple video screens. This may mean they need a video distribution system, additional speakers and amplification, and the ability to control it all. They may also have enough equipment at this point to warrant a dedicated space for an equipment rack. Be sure to learn whether the client likes to see the equipment, or would like it hidden.
Finally, the seating becomes very important. This level is where many clients want “seat shakers” (requires power at the seats and low voltage cabling to control the actuators) and multiple seating rows (requires careful attention to sight lines, audio placement, and tiered seating).
Dedicated Cinema Rooms
I use the term Cinema Room to differentiate a higher-end dedicated theater. Your high-end clients will probably prefer this term, since it offers a bit more prestige than the lower-end living room systems and more generic media rooms.
Cinema rooms can have from 4 to 40 or more seating locations, will likely have tiered seating, and will almost always be front-projection systems with a large screen. Multiple subwoofers are common, as are equipment racks. A standard 15-amp circuit may not provide enough power, but you still have to get everything on a single circuit if possible to prevent ground-loop issues.
You may also need to worry about sound isolation in a cinema room. First, you need to isolate any outside sounds such as HVAC, footsteps overhead, traffic outside, etc. This enables the theater to more accurately re-create very low volume sounds. Second, your client is likely to want to keep the theater sounds away from the rest of the house. They don’t want to have to turn down the volume on their favorite action movie so they don’t disturb the kids after bedtime!
Where to get help
For any electronic system, it’s important to bring in a CE pro (custom electronics professional). The CE pro will be able to help design the electronics, in conjunction with the architect, builder, and interior designer, in order to deliver the perfect experience for the client. That same CE pro will be able to recommend and provide the right mix of equipment and control systems for the client, staying within the client’s budget, and finally install and calibrate the equipment to ensure the best experience possible.
If you’re looking for a CE pro that you can trust to work with you (not against you) and deliver the best results for your clients, call the experts at Inspired Electronics, Inc. We are a local, family-run company that specializes in residential and commercial audio, video, and control systems. Call Keith Rose at 847.471.420 or email at keith@inspired-electronics.com.
For more information about Inspired Electronics, Inc., visit our website at http://www.inspired-electronics.com/.
But what exactly is home theater?
Simply defined, a home theater is an audio and video system where the speakers are not part of the video display, but rather are separate components. That’s a lot of latitude, since it can encompass anything from a small TV hooked up to a stereo all the way up to a dedicated room with seating for 40 with a very large projection system, multiple surround-speakers, racks of equipment, and a large touch panel control system.
So the first thing you need to do is learn exactly what a client wants when they say “home theater." Here are a few basic categories to help get you started.
Small Bedroom or Living Room System with Stereo
The simplest home theater has a small (by today’s standards!) flat panel TV mounted either on a stand or on the wall (over a fireplace is common), connected to a small stereo receiver and a pair of wall-mounted (in-wall or on-wall) or free-standing speakers. “Small” typically means under 40” diagonal.
If your client wants this, make sure you know if the TV will be wall- or stand-mounted (provide power and a cable chase if wall-mounted), and whether the speakers will be wall-mounted or free standing (if in-wall or on-wall, you’ll need to pre-wire with good-quality in-wall speaker wire – typically 16/2).
The client will probably also need a place to put the DVD or Blu-Ray player, the cable or satellite receiver, and the stereo receiver. A properly-sized nook or an equipment stand are the best options for this.
The wiring chase to the TV location can have an HDMI cable, Component Video cables, or other video cables pulled as needed. We like 2” flexible raceways to give enough room for the cable heads to get through.
Living room surround-sound system
The next level up typically incorporates a larger video display and surround-sound instead of stereo speakers. You still have to worry about power for the TV if it’s wall-mounted and pre-wiring for five speakers plus the subwoofer.
You’ll still need a place for the equipment to reside, so make sure to ask the client whether they want a built-in nook or if they’ll be putting in some furniture. Don’t forget to account for space for a gaming system and a way to dissipate heat! You need a way to get video up to the TV, so that cable chase is still important.
A new component you need to consider is the subwoofer. Surround-sound speakers generally require a separate subwoofer to handle the low frequencies. Don’t put the subwoofer in a nook, because the enclosure will further focus and amplify the bass frequencies. If the client wants to hide the sub, there are in-wall subwoofers available. These need to be preplanned, since there are enclosures that need to be built into the wall.
Media Rooms
Media rooms are one of the most common forms of home theater that people think of when building an addition or finishing a basement.
These frequently have a partially separated room for the video display and surround-sound, which joins into another entertaining space. There are a couple of major “gotcha’s” with media rooms.
First, you’re usually missing a wall. This has a big impact on the audio design, and means the client probably can’t watch one thing in the theater part while watching or listening to something else in the main entertaining area.
Second, some clients will want projectors, while others will want a very large flat panel display. It’s important to ferret this out at the beginning, since it impacts power needs and video cabling.
Third, many clients will want multiple video screens. This may mean they need a video distribution system, additional speakers and amplification, and the ability to control it all. They may also have enough equipment at this point to warrant a dedicated space for an equipment rack. Be sure to learn whether the client likes to see the equipment, or would like it hidden.
Finally, the seating becomes very important. This level is where many clients want “seat shakers” (requires power at the seats and low voltage cabling to control the actuators) and multiple seating rows (requires careful attention to sight lines, audio placement, and tiered seating).
Dedicated Cinema Rooms
I use the term Cinema Room to differentiate a higher-end dedicated theater. Your high-end clients will probably prefer this term, since it offers a bit more prestige than the lower-end living room systems and more generic media rooms.
Cinema rooms can have from 4 to 40 or more seating locations, will likely have tiered seating, and will almost always be front-projection systems with a large screen. Multiple subwoofers are common, as are equipment racks. A standard 15-amp circuit may not provide enough power, but you still have to get everything on a single circuit if possible to prevent ground-loop issues.
You may also need to worry about sound isolation in a cinema room. First, you need to isolate any outside sounds such as HVAC, footsteps overhead, traffic outside, etc. This enables the theater to more accurately re-create very low volume sounds. Second, your client is likely to want to keep the theater sounds away from the rest of the house. They don’t want to have to turn down the volume on their favorite action movie so they don’t disturb the kids after bedtime!
Where to get help
For any electronic system, it’s important to bring in a CE pro (custom electronics professional). The CE pro will be able to help design the electronics, in conjunction with the architect, builder, and interior designer, in order to deliver the perfect experience for the client. That same CE pro will be able to recommend and provide the right mix of equipment and control systems for the client, staying within the client’s budget, and finally install and calibrate the equipment to ensure the best experience possible.
If you’re looking for a CE pro that you can trust to work with you (not against you) and deliver the best results for your clients, call the experts at Inspired Electronics, Inc. We are a local, family-run company that specializes in residential and commercial audio, video, and control systems. Call Keith Rose at 847.471.420 or email at keith@inspired-electronics.com.
For more information about Inspired Electronics, Inc., visit our website at http://www.inspired-electronics.com/.
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