Saturday, March 15, 2008

Video scaling

I hear a lot of questions about video upconversion. I was talking with a client recently about a big-box retailer's recommendation to buy a receiver with built-in HDMI upconversion and switching. He wanted to know what that meant, and whether it was true that he needed it.


This is a pretty interesting issue, and is one of the reasons you should use an integrator like Inspired Electronics, Inc. instead of a big-box retailer - we truly understand the nuances of what's going on inside all of these boxes!


First, remember that all of your source components may output different resolutions. For example, a Blu-Ray player or good up-converting DVD player will output 1080p (or lower if you tell it to). A high-def cable or satellite receiver will put out either 1080i or 720p, depending on the signal coming from the cable/satellite company. Of course, any standard definition material is output in 480i (standard definition). And that old VCR that I integrated into my family room system sends out 480i as well.


Naturally, the TV will show the exact resolution that it was manufactured for (e.g. a 1080p display will show 1080 lines of resolution, a 720p display will show 720 lines, and a 480i display will show 480 lines - interlaced).


So how do you get the source format converted to the display format? Well, that's where a video scaler comes in. For the best possible quality, you will want an outboard dedicated video scaler box. Sometimes called a line-doubler or video upconverter, this dedicated piece of equipment takes any input format, and converts it to the appropriate output format, with truly excellent results. Of course, the price matches, with these dedicated units running $2000-4000 or more.


Your Blu-Ray or upconverting DVD player also does an excellent job of matching your source DVD to the TV. But, of course, it can only do this for DVDs.


The next choice then, really comes down to either the TV or a receiver with built-in switching and video processing capabilities.


The TV, naturally, knows its native resolution. So the scaler circuitry only has to convert to a single resolution - that of the TV.


The receiver doesn't know what resolution it's going to be driving when its built, so it has to be able to output all resolutions. So to achieve the same result, it will need more circuitry.


Now, some receivers will not handle any video processing at all. This keeps their cost down, but you have to run all video cables from the source device to the TV. If you have limited inputs on the TV and lots of sources, you may not be able to plug them all in. And if your source equipment is on the other side of the room from the TV, you will need to spend extra money on cables. 50' HDMI cables aren't cheap!


Other receivers will do what's called "video switching". This means they will send whatever signal comes in to the display over a single cable (usually HDMI or Component). But they don't change the signal - a 480i signal coming in on an S-Video input will go to the TV over the HDMI cable still at 480i. Usually, the receivers with video switching will cost an extra $200-300. But you can easily save that in cabling costs if your sources are a long way from the TV, since you only run one long HDMI cable from the receiver to the TV. The rest of the video cables are short since the components are close to each other in the cabinet.


The receivers that handle video scaling usually cost another $200-300 over the ones with video switching. Of course, the question is whether the scaler in the receiver is better than the one in the TV. At this level, the video scaling isn't bad. But if your TV already does a good job of converting, it's probably not worth adding the extra cost into the receiver unless you need the other features yoon the receiver (such as digital music streaming, additional power, etc.).


To get to a receiver that handles video scaling better than the TV, you will be spending about $1100-1300 more than the basic receiver that handles audio only. You also get other features in the receiver, such as more power, network audio streaming from your PC, and better audio calibration.


Of course, you can spend much more money on the receiver (I sell one receiver/amplifier pair for $14,000). At this level, you get great audio, great video scaling, 2 additional audio zones, individual amplifiers for each channel, wi-fi connectivity, and a lot more.

So the answer to whether you need a video converter in the receiver really comes down to one question - what's the most cost-effective way to get the video quality levels you want at the lowest cost?

If you're still wrestling with this (or any other home electronics or automation) question, please give me or Keith a call at 847.471.4420. We'd love to help you!

Thanks -
Rob

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